Innovative Tools

Mega-Catch™ ULTRA mosquito trap

2009-10-08T02:23:00.000-07:00

Mega-Catch™ Alpha Mosquito Trap (MCA-600)
http://www.megacatch.com/alpha.html

When space is limited, the fully featured, low cost ALPHA is the ideal trap for use in small yards, patios and gardens. Lightweight, compact and portable, it's also the perfect pack up and go trap to take on vacation. Constructed from resilient and weatherproof ABS it features the most recent advances including our patent pending multifrequency digital pulse lighting, high output variable heated surface, long life fan, easy fit catch bag, 12-volt UL approved transformer and dual installation fittings for optional chemical lures.
Features

* maximum range - 90 feet (27m)*
* maximum coverage -0.5 acre (0.2 hectare)*
* measured in optimum conditions
* indoor-outdoor use
* safe 12 volt operation
* durable all weather casing
* 12 month Manufacturer's Warranty

Package Contents

Each Mega-Catch™ Alpha Trap comes with:

* 1 x MCA-600 Mega-Catch™ Alpha Mosquito Trap
* 1 x Standard Catch Bag
* 1 x 110/12 Volt Transformer
* 1 x Operation Manual

Packaging Size: 9.5" x 9.5" x 13.5" (24 x 24 x 32cm)
Packaging Weight: 2 lb (0.5 kg)

X.10 from Homeseer

2008-12-14T21:44:00.000-08:00

SPRO - Home Automation Software Special (HomeSeer)

HSPRO - Home Automation Software Special (HomeSeer) Description

Overview

HomeSeer HSPRO is an advanced home automation and remote access software package that is designed to integrate the major systems of any home. With HSPRO, you can control and monitor lighting, appliances, security, HVAC, telephone and home theater all from one central point... and you can do so by computer, remote control, touchscreen, PDA, telephone, the internet or by voice!*

The MOST User Interfaces Available

How would YOU like to control YOUR home? With HSPRO , there are many options to choose from including touchscreens, wireless remotes, in-wall push-button controllers, by voice (microphone & telephone) or Microsoft Windows Media Center. Install as few or as many as you like to meet your needs. With HomeSeer, your choice is never limited!

	Touchscreen PCs and Monitors
	Touchscreen PCs and monitors provide a fun and fast way for users to access and control their homes. The HSPRO Software is shipped with a basic touchscreen interface and supports other professional grade interface packages.

	In-Wall "Scene" Controllers
	HSPRO is designed to work with scene controllers from many manufacturers based on hard-wired, wireless and powerline technologies. Buttons can be easily configured to control devices directly or execute automation 'events'.

	Microsoft Windows Media Center (MCE)
	Microsoft Windows Media Center users can now access and control their homes with HSPRO using the Media Center Interface and their Media Center remote controls. Rooms, Devices and Events may all be controlled through Media Ctr.

	Remote and Local Web Control
	HSPRO includes a complete web-based PC interface that may be accessed by any PC connected to the home network or to the internet. Homeowners and installers can monitor and control homes from anywhere in the world!

	Voice Control by Microphone and Telephone
	HSPRO is one of the only automation programs available that's designed to work with voice recognition! Support is included for open air room microphones (like the VoiceTracker™), headsets and via telephone (with the Way2Call interfaces).

	Wireless Remote Control
	Attach an infrared interface and HSPRO may be controlled by conventional infrared (IR) remotes. Radio Frequency (RF) remotes designed for use in Z-Wave and X10 networks are also supported.

	PDA / PocketPC Control
	HSPRO includes a built-in webserver and special web interface for small browser-enabled devices like PDAs and PocketPCs; perfect for travelers and vacationers wishing to monitor and control their homes remotely!

Control Lighting & Appliances

HomeSeer works with 'powerline', 'hard-wired' and 'wireless' technologies for total lighting and appliance control. Homeowners can use easy to install plug-in hardware modules (for table or floor lamps) or built-in modules such as wall switches and outlet receptacles. Lighting 'scenes' may be created with precise dimming levels to suit activities, moods and changing light conditions within the home.

Requires: PC interface, lamp / appliances modules or wall switches

Control Security

Connect HomeSeer to your security system and supercharge it's capabilities! With HomeSeer, security alerts can turn all your home's lights on, announce an intruder, shut down your HVAC system, email you at work, call your cell phone, display camera views on your TV or trigger any number of events within the home. And, because HomeSeer is web-enabled, you'll be able to monitor and control all security activities remotely.

Requires: Open-interface security system, HomeSeer plug-ins or scripting

Control HVAC

Programmable thermostats have been available for many years but they're all limited to just a number of 'timed' events. By adding a HomeSeer-controlled thermostat, here are just a few of the things you'll be able to do: 1) Raise or lower the thermostat when your security system is armed or disarmed; 2) Receive an email or phone call when the temperature goes above or below specified temps; 3) Turn your A/C on by cell phone on your way home; 4) Shut down your HVAC system when fire or smoke detectors are triggered.

Requires: Open-interface thermostat, HomeSeer plug-ins or scripting

Control Telephone

Here are just a few of the things you can do with a HomeSeer-powered telephone system: 1) Dial by voice; 2) Create message 'boxes' for the whole family; 3) Automatically email messages as MP3 attachments; 4) Use voice commands to control HomeSeer from any telephone in the house... or in the world! 5) Listen to your messages over the internet! 6) have HomeSeer phone when anything special happens in your home.

Requires: HomeSeer Phone software, specialized modem

Control Home Theater

Complete audio and video control are close at hand! Use HomeSeer to control TV, DVD, VCR, Cable, Dish and Stereo systems. HomeSeer also supports Microsoft Windows Media Center (MCE) 2005, Windows Media Player 9 & 10 and other popular media players. Add a wireless touchpanel to your coffee table and you'll have the latest in home theater control!

Requires: IR controller, HomeSeer plug-ins or scripting

Documents:

HSPRO Installation Guide

*Home automation hardware is required for control of all your home's systems. Contact your HomeSeer representative for complete details.

System Requirements
Windows XP Home, XP Pro, 2000 (SP2 or higher)
800 MHZ or faster recommended
512 MB or RAM recommended
150 MB or more of hard disk space
You must be a system administrator to install the software
Virtualization environments are not supported

gyui

X.10 from x10-store

2008-12-14T21:22:00.000-08:00

Professional Automated Living Kit PAL1

Professional Automated Living (PAL) - Designed to allow the levels of automation for builders wanting to differentiate themselves from the competition by offering lighting control options to discerning buyers seeking home automation upgrades.
The PAL1 is a potent selling tool for real estate professionals and custom home builders alike. This full "package" features the right mix of extras giving you the opportunity to display comfort, security and convenience to potential buyers.

The PAL1's ease of use is it's most compelling feature. You will wonder how you ever lived without it. The open architecture of X10 PRO systems enables home owners to expand their system right away or even years into the future.

The power of control is readily at hand, enjoy the convenience and new liftstyle benefits afforded to you with Professional Automated Living.

PHR03 Handheld RF Remote Control Transmitter- control in and around the house wireless
PHR04 Two button key chain transmitter – for control as you approach the house
PAT01 RF base transceiver – receives commands placing them on the power line
PHT02 Mini Timer – timed control of 2 ON/OFF; for 4 devices every 24 hours
PLM01 Lamp Module – plug in and plug an incandescent lamp into it; dim control
XPDI3 (2) Decorative Inductive Wall Switch Dimmer – wire-in single or 3-way master control
XPS3 (4) Decorative 20A Wall Switch – non-dimming control great for outside lighting
XPCP Passive Coupler - wires all electrical panel to gateway signal on phases

Popular Features:

Turning lights on from the car
Dimmable control of 3 different lights
One button lighting shut off at bedtime
"Bump-in-the-night" all lights on capability
Simple timer control for 4 lights
May be integrated with many alarm systems and personal computers too
Completely expandable at any time
Automatic random lighting control to create the "at home look"

Installation :
2The PAL1 includes the following:
1 PHR03 16+ Hand Held RF Remote Control
1 PHR04 2 Channel RF Keychain Remote
1 PAT01 Transceiver w/built-in appliance module
1 PHT02 Programmable Mini-timer
1 PLM01 Plug-in Lamp Module with AGC Circuit
2 XPDI3 Decorative Inductive Wall Dimmer Switches
4 XPS3 Decorative 20A Wall Switches
1 XPCP Passive Coupler (Signal Bridge)
Pre-installation Technical Information:
The X10 PRO products you are about to install utilize a unique communications protocol called PLC (Powerline Carrier). PLC superimposes a digital packet on the existing powerline of the home, making special
wiring unnecessary. The individual HOUSE and UNIT Codes are addressable on all
receivers (A-P) and must match those set on the Transmitters. Example:
House Code “A” set on a transmitter can only transmit to devices set to match House Code “A”, and receivers set to “A” can only receive “A” commands. The Specific UNIT CODE set to a receiver makes it only identify
with an individual command from a transmitter (1-16). Only a matching House and Unit code can properly control a PLC device. Using the existing 120VAC powerlines of the house, PLC products transmit in an environment where other electrical equipment share the power lines. Other devices can cause interference with PLC products. These Interference Issues are solvable. Should you detect an operational inconsistency of X10 PRO products, an XPPF (Plug-in Filter) or an XPF (Wire-in Filter) may be required to eliminate the noise situation caused by an “Offending Device”.
Such offending devices are those having power supplies that are on the line even if that device is turned off. (i.e. computer, monitor, printer, TV, low voltage lighting, surge suppressors, etc.). When you unplug one of these devices and the X10 PRO controls begin working again, you have identified a noise producing device. Simply plug in the XPPF Filter and plug the offending device into it. If the offending device is hard wired and you cannot unplug it, then shut the breaker off that supplies power to that circuit. If this solves your noise issue, then install the XPF Filter on that circuit.
X10 PRO has available the XPTT and the XPTR (Test Set) making signal noise testing simple, quick and more accurate than without them.

Installation:
The following is designed to be a quick installation reference guide, listed in the suggested installation order. For more detailed information regarding setup, install, or operation of a particular module, please reference the installation sheet packaged with each individual product. XPCP Passive Coupler Designed for Installation between two 120V phases of an electrical panel, the XPCP installs at the electrical panel. The Coupler provides a transmission path between both phases allowing the X10 Signal to pass from one phase to the another. Please read and follow all the Installation Instructions and
precautions found in the package containing the XPCP. XPDI3 Decorative Inductive Wall Dimmer Switches (Includes White
& Ivory) Possible installation locations: Master Bedroom or Hallway. Rated for max. 500W Incandescent loads or 4A Inductive loads, the Inductive Wall Dimmer Module is designed to fit a standard, single or multi gang wall box controlling incandescent lighting or inductive loads (i.e. lowvoltage lighting transformers, small motors and ceiling fans) up to 4A. With the power shut off, connect the Blue wire from the XPDI3 to the load, the White wire to Neutral and the Black wire to supplied Line Voltage 120VAC. If you are using this switch as a single pole switch, simply cap off the Red wire. If you are using this as a three way master, connect the Red wire to the traveller wire carrying control to the Slave Switch (XPSS). Finally, set the House Code on the module (under the removable Decorative cover) to match the code selected that will match the additional modules that you will install. The Unit code will be the individual address used to control
each device independently or as a group. Please read and follow all the Installation Instructions and precautions found in the package containing the XPDI3. XPS3 Decorative 20A Wall Switch (Includes White & Ivory) Possible installation Locations: Inside switches controlling Outdoor Walkway, Outside Entryway, Outdoor Floodlights and Inside Foyer.
Rated at 20A, the Decorative Wall Switch can operate Incandescent or Inductive Loads. Designed to fit a standard, single or multi gang wall box, the XPS3 also requires the use of a Neutral wire. With the power shut off, connect the wire leading to the load to the LOAD terminal on the switch. Connect a neutral to the NEUTRAL terminal and 120VAC to LINE on the
switch. If you are using this switch as a single pole switch, simply make no connection to the CONTROL terminal. If you are using this as a three way master, connect the CONTROL terminal to the traveller carrying control to the Slave Switch (XPSS). Finally, set the House Code on the module (under the removable Decorative cover) to match the code selected that will match the additional modules that you will install. The Unit code will be the individual address used to
control each device independently or as a group. Please read and follow all the Installation Instructions and precautions found in the package containing the XPS3.

PLM01 Plug-in Lamp Module w/AGC Circuit (White)
Possible installation locations: Convenient Lamp in Living Room or Nightstand in Master Bedroom or Child’s Room Security Light. Rated at 300W incandescent, the PLM01 allows you to plug a standard non-dimming lamp into this module and give you ON/OFF and BRIGHTEN/ DIM control over the powerline. The AGC circuit is an advanced design that allows the receiver to adjust the “GAIN” or level of which it listens for it’s commands. Take a lamp plug and insert it into the PLM01 and plug the PLM01 into a nearby electrical socket. Set the House code to match that of the previous installed devices and the Unit code to another unused code (unless you want it to match another installed device to activate at the same time). Leave the key switch on the lamp in the “On” position to let the module control the lamp from commands sent to it by a transmitter.

PHT02 Programmable Mini-Timer (White)
Possible installation location: Master Bedroom Dresser or Headboard shelves. This versatile Mini-Timer/Controller gives you the capability to directly control Unit Codes 1-4 or 5-8 from the rocker switches located on top of the unit. A “DIM/BRIGHTEN” command can be sent directly following the “ON/OFF” command sent, assuming that the command you sent was to a
“Light” controller with Dimming capabilities. Using the “ALL LIGHTS ON and ALL UNITS OFF” commands, you have access to all modules in your home with the push of a single button. Using the four position memory located in the timer you can program up to 2 “ON” and 2 “OFF” commands to 4 devices (1-4 or 5-8) every 24 hours. You can also use the built-in wake up alarm to wake you up in the morning.

Setting Up the Mini-Timer
* Set the HOUSE Code to match the Receivers already installed.
* Insert a 9 volt battery into the compartment on the bottom of the Mini- Timer and plug the Timer into a nearby outlet where you have located it.
* Set the Mode Selector to “Set Clock” and using the left/right arrow buttons set the current time.
* Set the Mode Selector to “Prog. Set” and using the arrows set a time for a device to come on/off. Next push the unit rocker that you want to function at that time (ON/OFF). Put selector back in the Run mode. To verify the current programs, set the Mode Selector to “Prog. Review”. Press each of the rockers to display the time set for that function. Pressing
the rocker twice displays both times (if you have two functions programmed). For more detailed programming and operation of this device, please read and follow all the Installation Instructions and precautions found in the package containing the PHT02.

PAT01 Base Transceiver w/Built-in Appliance Module (White)
Possible installation Location: Centrally located maybe on top of a plant shelf and convenient for Special Indoor or Holiday Lighting, powered from the built-in Appliance Module. The Transceiver is necessary for the next two devices described. The Transceiver receives RF Commands from Wireless Transmitters and inserts them onto the Powerline as X10 Commands.
* Find a location for the Transceiver to be located, (higher is better), and plug it into 120VAC.
* Set the House Code to match those that you have already installed.
* Set the “1-9” slide to either location to receive and process all 1-16 commands, however only 1 or 9 will be selected for the built-in appliance module. PHR03 16+ Hand Held RF Remote Control Possible installation locations: Next to your bed on a night stand or conveniently located on a living room coffee table. The 16+ Remote allows you to access, by RF control, ON/OFF plus Brighten/Dim control (when used with receivers that have dimming capabilities) of 16 X10 PRO devices. The PHR03 transmits to the PAT01 which receives the commands and inserts them onto the powerline.
* Set the House Code (A-P) on the front of the control to match that of the PAT01 (Base Transceiver).
* Set the Selector Switch at the bottom to either 1-8 or 9-16 to control the devices having those particular Unit Addresses.
* Insert two AAA Batteries in the proper direction and close the case. The PHR03 has a range of 100 feet, “line-of-sight”, less than that through walls and electrical fields. Try various locations with the PAT01 Base Transceiver for the best possible response

PHR04 Two Channel RF Keychain Remote
Possible installation locations: The Keychain of your choice or conveniently in your vehicle in a easy to reach location.
The Two Channel Keychain Remote allows you to access, by RF control, ON/OFF and Brighten/Dim of two X10 PRO devices. The PHR04 transmits to the PAT01 which receives the commands and inserts them onto the powerline.
To change the Housecode:
* Press and hold the first (top) ON button. The red LED blinks once. 3 seconds later, the LED blinks the current setting: 1 blink for House code A, 2 blinks for B..... 16 blinks for P.
* Release the first (top) ON button.
* Press and release the first (top) ON button the appropriate number of times for the Housecode you want to set. Once for A, twice for B, etc. The LED blinks for each press. IMPORTANT: Hold the button on your last press. 3 seconds later, the red LED blinks back the new setting, (i.e. 3 blinks for Housecode C). If you do not follow this programming sequence, the LED will stay on for 1 second and your existing setting will not be changed. To change the Unit code repeat the above steps using the top OFF button. The PHR04 has a range of 100 feet, “line-of-sight”, less than that through walls and electrical fields. Try various locations with the PAT01 Base Transceiver for the best possible response.

X10 Pro Monitored Security System model PRO2000VP

Kit Includes: 1 PRO2000 Digital Console, 2 Door/Window Sensors, 1 PIR Motion Sensor, 1 Handheld Remote Control, 1 Keychain Remote Control and 1 Lamp Module.

Wireless Home Security System with digital communicator that connects to a professional digital monitoring station in the event of a break-in.

X10 Format - Security & Automation for the Professional

Battery-powered Radio Frequency Door/Window Sensors and Motion Detectors are used to trigger the alarm.

Rolling-code Format. All sensors and remotes incorporate random digital security coding within 65,000 possible combinations.

Up to 16* Keychain Remotes with arm/disarm/panic and security light functions.

Up to 16* Handheld Security Remote with arm/disarm and panic functions, and buttons to control the security light and up to four additional X10 Pro Home Automation modules to operate lights and appliances around the home.

Up to 16* magnetic switch-operated wireless Door/Window Sensors.

Up to 16* wireless PIR Motion Sensor.

Additional X10 Pro Home Automation modules such as plug-in lamp and appliance modules and wired-in replacement wall switches.

*NOTE: Remotes may be added in any combination up to a total of 16. Door/Window Sensors and Motion Detectors may be added in any combination up to a total of 16.

Features:
Optional silent alarm
Alarm status indicator
Line seizure
16 zone capability
Radio frequency control
Built-in automation features
PC-programmable, optionally from a remote location

X.10 from Smarthome

2008-12-14T21:21:00.001-08:00

WHAT IS X10?

X10 is a communications "language" that allows compatible products to talk to each other using the existing electrical wiring in the home. Most X10 compatible products are very affordable and the fact that they talk over existing wires in your home means that no costly rewiring is necessary. Installation is simple, a transmitter plugs (or wires) in at one location in the home and sends its control signal (on, off, dim, bright, etc.) to a receiver which plugs (or wires) into another location in the home.


	110V Wires

X10 is Simple
Press a Button on the Transmitter and the Signal is Sent over the Home's Wiring to a Receiver

Using simple dials or buttons you assign each product with one of up to 256 addresses. If you wish two products to go on and off together you can set them to the same address or use scene addresses on many advanced products. All X10 compatible products can be freely mixed and matched - so use Smarthome products together with X10, Leviton, Stanley, IBM, JDS, ACT, Homepro, etc.


5 Easy Steps to Install Plug-In X10 Products


X10 - Making it Trouble-Free
Most of the time, X10 products work without any problems. However, because X10 products talk over your home's electrical wires they may have difficulties in two situations. The first is when there is an appliance running that generates "noise" onto the powerline. Appliances that may cause problems are motors (e.g. dryer, treadmill, vacuum cleaner, etc.) and advanced electronics (e.g. switching power supplies on some laptops, some big screen TV's, etc.). The good news is that all you need to do is plug the appliance into a noise filter such as FilterLinc. The second "issue" with X10 is when your X10 transmitter is on one "side" (phase) of your home's electrical wiring and the receiver is on the other "side". Many times the signal either bridges the two phases at the transformer at the street or via some 220V appliance in the home. When this doesn't happen, a simple plug-in phase coupler called SignaLinc will solve this challenge.		FilterLinc Noise Filter SignaLinc Phase Coupler


X10 -- Advantages
It is estimated that X10 compatible products can be found in over 10 million American homes. This is because it has so many advantages over other types of remote control products and systems: Inexpensive No new wiring is required -- perfect for retrofit Simple to install 100's of compatible products Control up to 256 lights and appliances Time proven -- it has been around for over 30 years


INSTEON — Ultimate Reliability

INSTEON is a robust, redundant dual-band mesh network that combines wireless radio frequency (RF) with the home's existing electrical wiring. INSTEON is less susceptible than other single-band networks to the kind of interference and noise commonly encountered within the home. INSTEON confirms every message to ensure that messages are received error-free, and it automatically retransmits corrupted messages. Because every INSTEON device acts as a two-way repeater, the INSTEON Network becomes stronger and more reliable as it grows. INSTEON-enabled devices will work with legacy X10 products.


Example Products by Type

What is X.10 ? (wiki & x10-store)

2008-12-14T21:04:00.000-08:00

X10 is an international and open industry standard for communication among electronic devices used for home automation, also known as domotics. It primarily uses power line wiring for signaling and control, where the signals involve brief radio frequency bursts representing digital information. A wireless radio based protocol transport is also defined.

X10 was developed in 1975 by Pico Electronics of Glenrothes, Scotland, in order to allow remote control of home devices and appliances. It was the first general purpose domotic network technology and remains the most widely available.^{[citation needed]}

Although a number of higher bandwidth alternatives exist including KNX, INSTEON, BACnet, and LonWorks, X10 remains popular in the home environment with millions of units in use worldwide, and inexpensive availability of new components.

Power line carrier control overview

X10 modules: The interior of an appliance module (note the impulse relay on the left) and a lamp module (note the TRIAC and heat sink)

Household electrical wiring — the same which powers lights and appliances — is used to send digital data between X10 devices. This digital data is encoded onto a 120 kHz carrier which is transmitted as bursts during the relatively quiet zero crossings of the 50 or 60 Hz AC alternating current waveform. One bit is transmitted at each zero crossing.

The digital data consists of an address and a command sent from a controller to a controlled device. More advanced controllers can also query equally advanced devices to respond with their status. This status may be as simple as "off" or "on", or the current dimming level, or even the temperature or other sensor reading. Devices usually plug into the wall where a lamp, television, or other household appliance plugs in; however some built-in controllers are also available for wall switches and ceiling fixtures.

The relatively high-frequency carrier frequency carrying the signal cannot pass through a power transformer or across the phases of a multiphase system. For split phase systems, the signal can be passively coupled from phase-to-phase using a passive capacitor, but for three phase systems or where the capacitor provides insufficient coupling, an active X10 repeater can be used. To allow signals be coupled across phases and still match each phase's zero crossing point, each bit is transmitted three times in each half cycle, offset by 1/6th cycle.

It may also be desirable to block X10 signals from leaving the local area so, for example, the X10 controls in one house don't interfere with the X10 controls in a neighboring house. In this situation, inductive filters can be used to attenuate the X10 signals coming into or going out of the local area.

[X10 protocol

Whether using power line or radio communications, packets transmitted using the X10 control protocol consist of a four bit house code followed by one or more four bit unit code, finally followed by a four bit command. For the convenience of users configuring a system, the four bit house code is selected as a letter from A through P while the four bit unit code is a number 1 through 16.

When the system is installed, each controlled device is configured to respond to one of the 256 possible addresses (16 house codes × 16 unit codes); each device reacts to commands specifically addressed to it, or possibly to several broadcast commands.

The protocol may transmit a message that says "select code A3", followed by "turn on", which commands unit "A3" to turn on its device. Several units can be addressed before giving the command, allowing a command to affect several units simultaneously. For example, "select A3", "select A15", "select A4", and finally, "turn on", causes units A3, A4, and A15 to all turn on.

Note that there is no restriction (except possibly consideration of the neighbors) that prevents using more than one house code within a single house. The "all lights on" command and "all units off" commands will only affect a single house code, so an installation using multiple house codes effectively has the devices divided into separate zones.

Power line protocol physical layer details

In the 60 Hz AC current flow, a bit value of one is represented by a 1 millisecond burst of 120 kHz at the zero crossing point (nominally 0°, but within 200 microseconds of the zero crossing point), immediately followed by the absence of a pulse. A zero value is represented by the absence of 120 kHz at the zero crossing point (pulse), immediately followed by the presence of a pulse. All messages are sent twice to reduce false signaling. After allowing for retransmission, line control, etc, data rates are around 20 bit/s, making X10 data transmission so slow that the technology is confined to turning devices on and off or other very simple operations.

In order to provide a predictable start point, every data frame transmitted always begin with a start code of 1110. Immediately after the start code, a house code (A–P) appears, and after the letter code comes a function code. Function codes may specify a unit number code (1–16) or a command code, the selection between the two modes being determined by the last bit where 0=unit number and 1=command). One start code, one letter code, and one function code is known as an X10 frame and represent the minimum components of a valid X10 data packet.

Each frame is sent twice in succession to make sure the receivers understand it over any power line noise for purposes of redundancy, reliability, and to accommodate line repeaters.

Whenever the data changes from one address to another address, from an address to a command, or from one command to another command, the data frames must be separated by at least 6 clear zero crossings (or "000000"). The sequence of six zeros resets the device decoder hardware.

The radio protocol

A four-channel radio switch and radio-to-power-line transponder

To allow the operation of wireless keypads, remote switches, and the like, a radio protocol is also defined. Operating at a frequency of 310 MHz in the U.S. and 433 MHz in European systems, the wireless devices send data packets that are very similar to ordinary X10 power line control packets. A radio receiver then provides a bridge which translates these radio packets to ordinary X10 power line control packets.

The devices available using the radio protocol include:

Keypad controllers ("clickers")
Keychain controllers that can control one to four X10 devices
Burglar alarm modules that can transmit sensor data
Passive infrared switches to control lighting and X-10 chimes
Non-passive information bursts

Device modules

X10 modules: A lamp socket module

Depending on the load that is to be controlled, different modules must be used. For incandescent lamp loads, a lamp module or wall switch module can be used. These modules switch the power using a triac solid state switch and are also capable of dimming the lamp load. Lamp modules are almost silent in operation, and generally rated to control loads ranging from around 40 watts to 500 watts.

For loads other than incandescent lamps, such as fluorescent lamps, high-intensity discharge lamps, and electrical appliances, the triac-based electronic switching in the lamp module is unsuitable and an appliance module must be used instead. These modules switch the power using an impulse relay. In the U.S., these modules are generally rated to control loads up to 15 amperes.

Many device modules offer a feature called local control. If the module is switched off, operating the power switch on the lamp or appliance will cause the module to turn on. In this way, a lamp can still be lit or a coffee pot turned on without the need to use an X10 controller. Wall switch modules may not offer this feature.

Some wall switch modules offer a feature called local dimming. Ordinarily, the local push button of a wall switch module simply offers on/off control with no possibility of locally dimming the controlled lamp. If local dimming is offered, holding down the push button will cause the lamp to cycle through its brightness range.

Higher end modules have more advanced features such as programmable on levels, customizable fade rates, the ability to transmit commands when used (referred to as 2-way devices), and scene support.

There are sensor modules that sense and report temperature, light, infra-red, motion, or contact openings and closures. Device modules include thermostats, audible alarms and controllers for low voltage switches.

Controllers

X10 controllers: A simple controller, a radio controller, and an original controller usable with an ultrasonic remote control

X10 controllers range from extremely simple to very sophisticated.

The simplest controllers are arranged to control four X10 devices at four sequential addresses (1–4 or 5–8). The controllers typically contain the following buttons:

Unit 1 On/Off
Unit 2 On/Off
Unit 3 On/Off
Unit 4 On/Off
Brighten/Dim (last selected unit)
All Lights On/All Units Off

More sophisticated controllers can control more units and/or incorporate timers that perform preprogrammed functions at specific times each day. Units are also available that use passive infrared motion detectors or photocells to turn lights on and off based on external conditions.

Finally, very sophisticated units are available that can be fully programmed or use a program running in an external computer. These systems can execute many different timed events, respond to external sensors, and execute, with the press of a single button, an entire scene, turning lights on, establishing brightness levels, and so on. Control programs are available for PCs running Microsoft Windows, Apple's Macintosh and Linux software.

Burglar alarm systems are also available. In these systems, the controller uses X10 protocols or ordinary wiring to interrogate a number of remote sensors that may monitor doors, windows, and other access points. The controller may then use X10 protocols to activate lights, sirens, etc.

Weak points and limitations

One problem with X10 is excessive attenuation of signals between the two live conductors in the 3-wire 120/240 volt system used in typical North American residential construction. Signals from a transmitter on one live conductor may not propagate through the high impedance of the distribution transformer winding to the other live conductor. Often, there's simply no reliable path to allow the X10 signals to propagate from one phase wire to the other; this failure may come and go as large 240 volt devices such as stoves or dryers are turned on and off. (When turned on, such devices provide a low-impedance bridge for the X10 signals between the two phase wires.) This problem can be permanently overcome by installing a capacitor between the phase wires as a path for the X10 signals; manufacturers commonly sell signal couplers that plug into 240 volt sockets that perform this function. More sophisticated installations install an active repeater device between the phases, while others combine signal amplifiers with a coupling device. A repeater is also needed for inter-phase communication in homes with three-phase electric power. In many countries outside North America, entire houses are typically wired from a single 240 volt single phase wire so this problem does not occur.

An RCD/GFCI can attenuate X10 signals passing through the device. This means that X10 signals passing through an RCD may not be strong enough to provide reliable communication.

Other problems: TVs or wireless devices may cause spurious off or on signals. Noise filtering (as installed on computers as well as many modern appliances) may help keep external noise out of X10 signals, but noise filters not designed for X10 may also filter out X10 signals traveling on the branch circuit to which the appliance is connected.

Also, certain types of power supplies used in modern electronic equipment (such as computers, television sets, and satellite receivers) "eat" passing X10 signals by providing a low impedance path to high frequency signals. Typically, the capacitors used on the inputs to these power supplies short the X10 signal from line to neutral, suppressing any hope of X10 control on the circuit near that device. Filters are available that will block the X10 signals from ever reaching such devices; plugging offending devices into such filters can cure mysterious X10 intermittent failures.

Some X10 controllers may not work well or at all with low power devices (below 50 watts) or devices like fluorescent bulbs that do not present resistive loads. Use of an appliance module rather than a lamp module may resolve this problem.

X10 signals can only be transmitted one command at a time, first by addressing the device to control, and then sending an operation for that device to perform. If two X10 signals are transmitted at the same time they may collide or interleave, leading to commands that either cannot be decoded or that trigger incorrect operations.

The X10 protocol is also slow. It takes roughly three quarters of a second to transmit a device address and a command. While generally not noticeable when using a tabletop controller, it becomes a noticeable problem when using 2-way switches or when utilizing some sort of computerized controller. The apparent delay can be lessened somewhat through the use of scenes and by using slower device dim rates.

X10 dimmer devices offer little or no built-in support for varying lighting moods, so called "scene setting". Changing a lighting scene typically requires adjusting each lighting circuit one after the other, and can be visually unappealing and also very slow. Support for arbitrary dimming speed is also generally lacking, again limiting the aesthetics and suitability of X10 for proper lighting control.

The standard X10 power line and RF protocols lack support for encryption, and can only address 256 devices. Unless filtered, power line signals from close neighbours using X10 may interfere with each other if the same device addresses are used by each party. Interfering RF wireless signals may similarly be received, with it being easy for anyone nearby with an X10 RF remote to wittingly or unwittingly cause mayhem if an RF to power line device is being used on a premises.

Computer-Controlled Lighting System
By Dave Rye

For years people have talked about Home Computers being used to control the home but the truth is until now there hasn't been anything that can really do this at an affordable price. Now all that has changed. I recently purchased an IBM® Aptiva™ from RadioShack™ and it came with a surprise bonus. It included something that IBM calls Home Director.™ It's a Home Automation system that controls lights and appliances using the readily available modules sold by RadioShack, Magnavox, X-10® and others. The enclosed literature promised that Home Director could do stuff I'd never heard of before and not only that, it was (as far as I was concerned) free, having been included when I bought the Aptiva.

The starter kit included the Home Director Serial Interface, a Lamp Module, and Appliance Module, the Home Director software on a CD ROM and a serial connecting cable. I couldn't wait to get started. I followed the simple set-up instructions and had the system up and running in no time. I connected the Serial Interface to the RS-232 port on my Aptiva using the supplied cable and popped the CD into the drive. The software installation was a snap with simple instructions to guide me through every step. The software even showed full color photographs of the included modules showing how to install them. I had everything plugged in, connected up, and running in literally a few minutes.

I discovered that the interface was indeed more powerful than anything I had seen or heard of before. I quickly discovered that it was a 2-way interface having the capability of both transmitting and receiving X-10 compatible signals onto and from my house wiring. This is what (I discovered) makes Home Director so powerful. It can perform complex Macros - sequences of events that IBM calls Routines, whenever it receives a command from any X-10 or RadioShack plug 'n power controller over my house wiring.

I already had quite an extensive X-10 system in my home so the modules weren't a problem (even though Home Director came with two modules). I also had plenty of controllers around the house from which to activate the Routines. The first thing I did was to set up a wake-up Routine. I decided to set up a routine to turn on my bedside lamp and radio at 7:00 AM (on weekdays only) and to turn on the coffee pot at the same time. I wanted the coffee pot to turn off one hour later in case I forgot to turn it off before I left for work. The first thing I needed to do was to install on-screen modules to match the physical modules in my home. I clicked on the lamp module icon on the toolbar in the Home Director main screen and a Lamp Module appeared on the screen. I then clicked on the Appliance Module icon and an Appliance Module appeared on the screen. I set the codes for the on-screen modules to match the actual modules in my bedroom.

I already had my two bedside lamps on X-10 modules set to codes A4. One of these is a Lamp Module and the other is an Appliance Module. I have them both set to the same code because I make use of a little known and undocumented X-10 feature. When I want to turn on both modules I press 4-On on my bedside Mini Controller but when I want to read and my wife wants to sleep, I press 4 dim (instead of 4 On) which turns my Lamp Module on but not the Appliance Module on my wife's side. Of course I could do this by setting the two modules to different codes, but I have so many modules in my home that I don't want to use up codes unnecessarily so I find this feature quite handy. So I set both on-screen modules to A4. I then clicked on the Appliance Module icon again and set it's code to A2 (the code I use for my coffee pot).

I selected New Routine from the Routine menu in the Home Director main screen (fig 1.) and this took me to the Routine Assistant screen (fig. 2) with a new Routine button shown on the left side of the screen and my three installed modules on the right side of the screen. I dragged the A4 lamp module and the A2 appliance module from the right side to the left side one at a time and dropped them onto the Routine placeholder. I set both of these to turn on, I then dragged both of these modules from right to left again and this time set them to turn off after a delay of 60 minutes. I then returned to the main Home Director screen and set this Routine to activate on weekdays at 7:00 AM. (fig 3).

Having discovered how easy it was to set up Routines I quickly set about making Routines for all my daily tasks. I set up a coming home Routine which turns on my outside floodlights, my front porch light, my inside hall light and my living room stereo and turns the outside lights off 5 minutes later. I activate the Routine by pressing a button on a wireless key chain remote control that I keep in my car. When I enter my driveway I press the button, this transmits a wireless radio frequency (RF) signal into my home. The signal is picked up by an X-10 transceiver (which I already owned) which re-transmits the signal onto my house wiring. The Home Director interface receives this signal from my house wiring and activates my "coming home" Routine.

Another neat feature of the Home Director is something that the manufacturer (X-10) calls Virtual Wiring.™ This lets you literally re-wire your home at the click of your mouse button. I have been using X-10 products since their introduction back in 1978 and have accumulated many modules around my home. The evolution of my system is such that various modules are scattered around my home on different codes which I have become familiar with over time. I'm used to the fact that my bedroom radio is code A5, my living room stereo is A8, my porch light is A15, etc. This means that the modules aren't necessarily coded in "convenient" groups.

For example I attached an X-10 wireless wall switch near my front door so I can turn my living room stereo on and off as I enter and leave my home. The problem is that X-10 wireless wall switches have 4 buttons that are grouped in banks so you can set them to control modules 1, 2, 3, & 4 or 5, 6, 7, & 8 etc. My stereo in on code 8 but there isn't anything set to codes 5, 6, or 7 that I need to control from my front door. I don't want to change the codes on my modules because everyone in my home has become familiar with the existing codes.

This is where Home Director and Virtual Wiring comes in: I "Virtually" re-wired my home on the Home Director screen. I mentioned before that my porch light is set to A15, I wanted to control this from the 7 button on the wireless wall switch near my front door. To do this I set the wireless wall switch to Housecode B. I then set up a Routine so that when the Home Director interface received B7 ON it turns on A15. When it receives B7 OFF it turns off A15. I have therefore re-mapped (or virtually wired) the button on my wireless wall switch to my outside porch light.

I have now placed these wireless wall switches all over my home and set each of them up to control different lighting patterns. I have a button that means I'm home and it turns on certain lights and the stereo. Another button means my wife is home and when she presses this a different set of lights turns on as well as the bedroom TV. And the best is that I can (and do) change these patterns at will just by dragging and dropping icons on my computer screen. I've set up Routines for mood lighting, party scenes, goodnight Routines, etc. My Home Director even has a feature that lets me monitor every X-10 code it sees on my house wiring. I can at the click of a button see what time my son's bedroom light last turned on (so I know exactly what time he came home last night!).

The more I use Home Director, the more uses I find for it. It seems to me that IBM, X-10, and RadioShack have a winner here. They've finally put the Home in Home Computer!

Home Automation for the Technologically Challenged
Michael R. Taylor – Happy HomeSeerÒ Homeowner

Computers are now a fact of life for many households. Yet, the tasks performed by these computers are minimal; perhaps we check our email, surf the web or write a few letters now and then. Heck, most of those who have computers are still running an outdated operating system, like WindowsÒ98, for fear of changing something in the computer that will make it nothing more than a high-tech paper-weight!

And, we are all faced with soaring energy costs! I must admit, I have a gene directly connected to the power company, and when I see that my heat is on at 80° and no one is home, my blood pressure starts to rise!

So what was my solution to marrying these two seemingly separate technologies? How could I somehow use the computer I have at home to control my heating, lights and security? Well, after much surfing (yes, I am an addicted web surfer!), and after spending quite a lot of time looking at the various solutions touted by many, I settled on a simple to use, yet extremely powerful software program called HomeseerÒ, created by a small company called Homeseer Technologies. Personally, I think they should drop the “Technologies” part because it can strike fear in the hearts of many who are still trying to get their stacks of paper out from under their computer.

The basics behind this software is another technology called X-10 which is a simple way of communicating with electrical devices like light switches, thermostats and motion detectors by sending these hieroglyphic bit patterns out over my existing home power wiring. Without getting into the guts of this PLC stuff (Power Line Carrier), because I really have no desire to, my home is now “smart” by using HomeseerÒ and X-10 based switches.

So I thought to myself, I’m going to buy all these X-10 devices, replace my existing light switches with some really neat looking ones from places like smarthome.com and I’ll be in business. I did buy a whole bunch of switches, which cost about $2,100 in my case, got my screwdriver and pliers out and went to town replacing my light switches. I have to admit, I could have got by with less money, but I wanted the really cool switches that have two-way capabilities: the kind that not only send these bit patterns over the power line, but can be “asked” if they are on or off. Remember, I have that gene that’s connected to the power company, and I wanted to know, for sure, if a light was on or off.

After all the switches were in, I had a lot of fun turning them on and off from my computer; watching the computer show their status of “on” or “off” when another member of my family hit one of these switches; and generally thinking that, “Wow, I did it!”

So, I got the bug! I ordered more stuff, like an X-10 thermostat and some X-10 keypads. I wanted the keypads to show if lights were on in various rooms, and so that I could hit a lit keypad button and turn the lights off in a particular room. I also wanted to regulate the heat and air conditioning in my house: a 3000 square foot home with a finished basement. The problem I was having with the heating and air conditioning was that if I wanted it 70° upstairs, where we live, entertain and sleep, the downstairs, where the kids sleep and entertain their friends, would creep up to about 80°. Similarly, in the summer, when I wanted it about 67° upstairs, I found that I could hang meat downstairs without fear of it going bad! Obviously something had to be done about this.

I ordered a couple of X-10 thermostats and some dampers from smarthome.com and when they arrived, I thought “Hmmm…now what?” You see, I had these boxes of dampers that had to be put onto the plenum (the big box) of the furnace and get these things to close and open depending on the thermostat settings of each thermostat, one for upstairs and one for downstairs.

After a quick trip to the local hardware supply store, where I bought fittings and boots and other things I still don’t know what they do, I brought all this stuff home and got out my brand new pair of sheet metal cutters. Hey, what’s a trip to the hardware store if you can’t rationalize a new tool purchase?

After cutting up the existing ducts from where they came out of the plenum, and screwing on all these dampers and boots and fittings, I ended up with a furnace that looks like the robot in Lost in Space. But, it only took a buddy of mine and me one Saturday to do this, and I have to say, it worked! I now had complete, independent control of heating and air conditioning for the upstairs and the downstairs. At this point, I was really feeling proud of myself!

I didn’t do much for a while, because, while HomeseerÒ was dutifully logging the temperatures for each zone, and kept telling me (via voice from the computer speakers) that lights were being turned on and off by members of my family, I finally came to the conclusion that my efforts were probably in vain! Why do I say this? Yes, while it’s true that I was able to separate the heating and cooling for the upstairs and downstairs, and it’s true that I was able to turn whole rooms of lights on and off with the keypads, I still was coming home to a house with the heat turned way up and lights left on in the house, when no one was home! I was depressed!

You see the problem wasn’t HomeseerÒ or X-10, but my family. My teenage daughter is of the belief that if you turn up the thermostat (“because it’s cold, Dad”) to say, 90° then it will get hotter, quicker! And, everyone just sort of ignored my keypads. After all, they weren’t paying those huge monthly bills to the power company, and a gene? What’s a gene? Connected to what?

I was just about resigned to the fact that I would never get my bills down, when I discovered the best thing about HomeseerÒ. No, it wasn’t the low price (under a hundred bucks), and it wasn’t that it could talk to me or turn off lights by voice command (which I still think is pretty cool). It wasn’t even the fact that HomeseerÒ could turn on and off lights based on time or any other number of conditions. No, the best thing about HomeseerÒ was when I discovered the message board! With over 6,000 members (did you read that right? Yes, I said six thousand!), I suddenly found the answers to my prayers! With people like Rich, who wrote HomeseerÒ, Rupp (what he does, I have no idea, but he seems to know a lot), a guy by the name of Doolittle (I keep being reminded of the doctor), and others like McSharry and, well the list goes on and on…Anyway I suddenly had access to a bunch of people who really knew this stuff about X-10 and writing scripts using HomeseerÒ.

I started out by reading just about every message post on the board. To say that I was confused is an understatement. But, I did start to learn things. And, when I discovered the Script Forum, I was in Nirvana! I found a script by a fellow named Kevin Knudsen that promised complete control of my X-10 thermostats. Further, he stated that I could set upper and lower set points (I didn’t really know what this meant) and that by doing so, I could make it so that if my teenage daughter set the heat to that ubiquitous 90°, I could then take charge, via this script thing, and set it back down to 72° or whatever temperature I wanted. Boy, was this cool or what?

I downloaded this script, which is just a text file, and followed the directions for getting it into HomeseerÒ. It worked! I didn’t write the thing, I didn’t modify the script, I just set it up, told it that I wanted a high temperature setting of 72°, a low setting of 63°, and away I went.

So, for no additional money, I was able to solve one of my pet peeves – that of the temperature being set really high or low. But, I still hadn’t solved my real problem of getting my family to hit the right buttons on the keypads when they were coming or leaving. Remember, they have no interest in this stuff.

Then I discovered plug-ins. You ask what’s a plug-in? Well, it’s a little program that someone wrote that automatically installs within HomeseerÒ. What I found are three really neat plug-ins that solved my family problems (no, counseling is still an option; I mean that I could now have my house think and act, with no direct interaction from members of the household).

I downloaded these plug-ins, which cost all of about $50 and began scouring the message threads regarding these plug-ins. The ones I bought were John Oman’s RF receiver plug-in, actually free, but I did buy the little RF receiver device, which cost about $75; Jim Doolittle’s DooMotion plug-in to help manage motion detectors; and Michael McSharry’s mcsTemperature plug-in to handle another little technology called One Wire Devices.

Okay, here is what they do, and how I was able to make my house smart!

First off, I needed a device that could pick up those signals from motion detectors and let HomeseerÒ know what was going on. I chose the W800RF32 from WLG Designs and got John Oman’s plug-in with the package. Essentially, it listens for signals from the motion detectors (about 12 bucks from smarthome.com) and lets HomeseerÒ know if motion is detected in an area of my house. And, these motion sensors are wireless, which means that it’s really easy to “install” them. I just put a couple of AAA batteries in them, set up the house and device code I want (an X-10 thing), put some Velcro on the back and pasted them on the wall where I wanted them! Forget the screws – they’re a pain in the you know what.

Second, I bought Jim Doolittle’s DooMotion plug-in. With his neat little software plug-in, I very easily set up my motion detectors, and then assigned them to “occupancy” zones, like my daughter’s room, the office, kitchen, upstairs living room, downstairs living room, and the like. Then, I wrote these little snippets of code, that I learned from the message board, to turn off lights in these various occupancy zones when there was no motion detected in a 30 minute period. Voila! When no one was in the room for a period of time, that I could select, the lights were turned off by HomeseerÒ.

Finally, I bought Michael McSharry’s mcsTemperature plug-in that controls this neat technology called One Wire Device. I think Dallas Semiconductor made these devices originally, but what it really is for me is some telephone wire (category 5, to be exact), that I strung throughout the house with these environment sensors attached. The actual wiring took the longest time. I had to figure out how to run this wire to the bathrooms (more on this later), and outside the house to a weather station. I hooked up all of these devices, which cost me about two hundred bucks, to an intelligent controller from Mitch at midondesign.com who is an active member of the aforementioned message board. What I wanted to achieve was to somehow tell what the outside temperature was (I could already get the inside temperature from my X-10 thermostats), and to be able to tell what the humidity was in the bathrooms. Remember, I told you that my teenagers are just that – teenagers. They really didn’t care if the steam from taking a shower messed up the mirror; they just wiped it off with a towel. But, I cared! The steam was making the paint peel in the bathrooms. I asked one of them why they didn’t turn on the bathroom fan. Their response: “It messes with my chi.”

Well, now, when someone takes a shower, the humidity sensor in the bathroom keeps telling HomeseerÒ what the actual humidity in the bathroom is. And, when it gets above 70%, it turns on the bathroom fan and keeps it on until the humidity returns to about 50%. No more paint peeling in the bathroom!

You may ask why I am interested in the outside temperature? Well, I live in an area of the country that actually has seasons. It’s real hot in the summer, and it snows in the winter. And, the temperature varies widely even in these seasons. One time it snowed on the 4^th of July! So, I couldn’t just rely on dates to control my furnace and air conditioning. What I did was so simple, yet so powerful, that I like to point it out to all my male friends who have experienced the same frustrations with the heat left on that I have. What I did was to check the outside temperature. If it’s above 70°, then I know that I need air conditioning. If it’s below 70°, I know I need heat: I don’t want my pipes freezing, and I don’t want the air on when it’s cold!

So, back to DooMotion. I wrote this little script, based on all the info I gleaned from the message board, that checks to see if the downstairs is occupied (or the upstairs, for that matter). When one of these two major zones are vacant, I check the outside temperature, figure out if I should be using heat or air conditioning, and then set the thermostat to a low, but easily recoverable temperature. This way, when no one is home, my heat and air conditioning bill goes down because there is no sense in heating or cooling my house if no one is around to enjoy it! And, when someone comes home and “trips” a motion detector, HomeseerÒ says that the upstairs or downstairs is now occupied and I do the whole check thing again and set the temperature to what my family has determined to be a comfortable setting.

I know I can be somewhat long winded when it comes to talking about HomeseerÒ, but if you’ve read this far, then you know that I’ve become a real fan of this technology. Have there been trials and tribulations? Yes, but with the help of Rich, the guy who wrote HomeseerÒ and all of the members on the message board, I’ve triumphed! And, my WAF (wife acceptance factor) has gone through the roof!

Yup! I’ve saved over 28% on my power bill, which comes to about a hundred bucks a month. I’ve spent about $5,000 to make all of this stuff work together the way I want it to, which means that in about 3 more years I’ll have broken even. Am I ahead? You bet!

Because, you want to know the best part about making my house smart? Not the fact that I have saved over 28% on my power bill (the power company hates me!). No, the best part is that my family now expects lights to come on in certain areas when it’s dark and they enter. They now expect that the fan will come on when it’s needed. They now expect that the temperature is set properly when they leave or come home. They now expect that the outside lights will come on when it’s dark and go off at 9:00pm (but come back on if they come home later). They now expect…I can’t keep up with their wish list now, but I’m having fun trying. And, more importantly, I’m no longer hounding them to turn off lights or turn on the fan or set the temperature back or…which makes for a more enjoyable family environment!

Build Your Own X-10 Compatible Alarm System

by Guy Lavoie

How would you like to build your own conventional (wired-in) alarm system with complete X-10 connectivity ? Here are some of it's features:

10 zones: 8 wired zones plus 2 X-10 "zones"
special "watch zone" to protect a garage or garden shed while you're home
bypass any zone(s), find out which zone was triggered first, automatic re-arm with auto bypass of any tripped zone(s)
panic button function by hardwired button and/or by X-10
monitor (chime) mode to alert you of any doors being opened while you're home
all the above functions controllable from X-10 as well as from the control panel
inquire about status remotely by X-10 STATUS REQUEST commands
manually trigger all-purpose X-10 macros right from the control panel
guest code that can be temporarily enabled
does dishes while you're gone

All this functionality can be yours ( well…ok, it doesn't do dishes ) by building this 2-chip project based on the Intel 8751 micro controller. Interested ? read on…

Introduction

I got into home automation for probably the same reason as many of you reading this did; I wanted to give my home a lived-in look while the house was unoccupied. In my case, it was after being the victim of a small break-in that I felt the need to do something to prevent a re-occurrence. Like most victims of such events will tell you, even if your insurance covers every loss and there is no financial impact whatsoever, the unpleasant feeling of knowing that someone violated your home can never be compensated for.

My first experience with home automation was about 18 months ago. After having acquired the original ActiveHome kit and having gradually converted all my light switches to X-10, I started to like the convenience of remote control (especially being able to turn off all the lights at once when leaving, or when the kids leave them on all over the house ) and then started to automate certain tasks like turning the pool filter off at night and back on in the morning. Having had a life-long hobby of building and designing electronics projects, I started to look for do-it-yourself projects on the Internet involving X-10 or home automation, and have found very few! I suspect that this is due to the difficulty of interpreting the X-10 protocol and interfacing it to what would be otherwise simple circuitry. I still see home automation mostly as a hobby, done by enthusiasts who actually enjoy digging in and customizing things. This reminds me of personal computing in the early 80's, when computers were far from being off-the-shelf consumer items with standardized user interfaces and peripherals.

Fortunately, the X-10 protocol is an open specification and is well documented. I therefore started to investigate the best way to interface X-10 to the outside world and have found the micro controller chip to be the best solution, since not only the X-10 connectivity could be addressed by the micro controller, but also the logic of the project itself, resulting in a device with very few parts. In my particular case, I have chosen to work with the Intel 8751 since I had a good source for many of these at an unbeatable price ( i.e.: free ) and I had access to the original compiler from Intel. This chip is also widely available and well supported in the micro controller community, being the "granddaddy" of them all. Those of you who have tried to interface to X-10s TW-523 module know that it is not for the faint of heart, but the 8751s timers and interrupts make the tight timing much easier to deal with than with a PC.

The Project

This is actually my first ever micro controller project of any kind, so I first started to learn the particular assembly language for the 8751. What I originally set out to do was simply build an alarm with basic functionality, but my initial success ( after MUCH trial and especially error ) with X-10 connectivity spurred me on to add more and more features until I had filled the entire 4K EPROM of the 8751 and had used all 32 I/O pins (actually, I am only using 4094 bytes of the 4096 available. If anyone has an idea for a new feature that fits in 2 bytes, let me know…) . It's amazing how much you can accomplish with 4K in assembly language! I now have a very complete alarm system with full X-10 connectivity for every function.

Your first question probably is: how do I get my 8751 programmed ? I have provided you with a downloadable binary file representing an image of the 8751's EPROM. I had my own EPROM burner and I only needed to buy the micro controller adapter to be in business (by the way, my EPROM burner, a real bargain, came from Needham's Electronics. I bought it, the PB-10, over 10 years ago. When I wanted the micro-controller module I looked for them on the Internet and there they were, not only still supporting it but even offering a software upgrade for free…). If you do not have an EPROM programmer, you will need to take the binary file to an EPROM programming service. You should be able to find this service at the same place you bought your micro controller, or they can probably refer you to an appropriate provider. Since this is a binary file, no conversion of any kind is necessary. You should, however, edit the file to put in the 4 digit arm/disarm code that you want, as well as the desired 4 digit guest code. Since this project does not have any non-volatile writeable memory, you must have these codes "burned in" the micro controller. The codes are located in the last 8 bytes of the EPROM and are in ASCII. First is the guest code, followed by the main code. As it stands, the file comes with "4096" as the guest code and "8751" as the main code, so the last eight bytes, in hexadecimal, are: 34,30,39,36,38,37,35,31 from locations FF8 to FFF.

There are few other bytes that you can change to customize the system (all values are in hex). Note that timing values should be adjusted at pro-rata of current value, because they are not exact seconds.

OFFSET	CURRENT VALUE	PURPOSE
1CE	35	duration of WZ siren if tripped ( approx: 1 minute )
26B	17	exit delay ( approx: 25 secs )
2F1	17	entry delay ( approx: 25 secs )
325	75	duration of alarm siren if tripped ( approx: 2 minutes)
2DB	C0	immediate zones ( no entry delay ) lowest bit zone 1, highest bit zone 8. currently 1100 0000 meaning zones 7 and 8 are immediate.

The particular version of the 8751 that I used is the 8751H. I know there are several variations ( including the CMOS 87C51) and various manufacturers of compatible chips, but I have not tried any of those, so if you have one of these, you may want to test it thoroughly. Study the schematic diagram carefully, being careful not to confuse what goes to +5V and what goes to +12V. The DB25 connector is used to allow a cable between the control panel and the actual system. Keep this cable as short as possible ( ideally 6 ft or less ). I have my control panel in a cut-out in the wall, and the system right below it in the basement. Also avoid using conductors that are next to each other in the cable for the 8 keypad connections, because the rapid switching transients from the keypad scanning routine can induce noise and cause the keypad to operate erratically. All the zone inputs are configured as normally closed (normally pulled to ground) by the various sensors. If you require some inputs to be normally open, you can add an inverter circuit (like a 74LS04) between the optocoupler and the 74LS244 inputs for these zones. Do NOT modify anything between the 74LS244 and the 8751, since the pins on the 8751 are used both as inputs and outputs. In fact, that is why the 74LS244 is there in the first place, to allow the zone LEDS to either show the zone inputs in real time, or show which zone was tripped. Also, do NOT use a crystal with a frequency other than 11.059 MHz. If you do, the X-10 timing would be altered and will not work.

The keypad contains the 16 key keypad, the 8 zone LEDS, the ARM status LED, the WATCH Zone status LED, and the pre-alarm buzzer. The two status LEDs have equivalent open collector outputs on the main board that you can use to add status LEDs to your door frame(s), so you can see if your system is armed or has been tripped even before entering the house. I chose this keypad because it was available for 75 cents at a surplus store. If you can only find a 12 key telephone type keypad, you can use it along with four extra normally open switches wired as shown in the schematic. Just make sure that the keypad is a switch matrix (most are).

Construction

To ensure successful construction, you should build a small part and then test it before continuing. Start by connecting the oscillator circuit (11.059 MHz crystal and the two 30 pf capacitors), the power-on reset circuit ( the resistor and capacitor connected to pin 9 ), and the 2 keypad status LEDS (ARM status and Watch Zone status. When you power it up, the two LEDs should be blinking together about once every 4 seconds. Now you know that the EPROM is correctly programmed and the processor is working. If it doesn't work, try a manual reset of the CPU after powering up. You can do this by momentarily applying +5V to pin 9 of the 8751. If this gets it going, you might need to get a more stable power supply.

Next you should add the keypad and the pre-alarm buzzer. Test these by pressing keys randomly; the pre-alarm buzzer should acknowledge every keypress by a short beep. If you key in the arming code followed by the CODE key, you should get the keypress beep plus a second; longer beep (because the system can't be armed unless all zone inputs are low ). This last test tells you that the keypad is correctly wired and is operating normally.

The next step is to add the X-10 connectivity components. These are the parts connected to pins 11,12,and 13 of the 8751, as well as the house code selection DIP switch connected to pins 14 to 17. Set the DIP switch to the desired house code according to the table on the schematic. With the TW-523 connected ( see caution on the schematic about the RJ-11 cable ), you should receive a 14 OFF when the circuit is powered up. This corresponds to an "alarm disarmed" message and could be used in some kind of auto-recovery mode with your HA system, although this should not be necessary with the backup battery on the alarm system. The 14 OFF received will also confirm your setting of the house code selected with the DIP switch. At this point, you could try sending X-10 on/off commands with the keypad (see Triggering Macros below).

After these initial tests, you can proceed to build the rest of the project and try the various commands described in the operating instructions. To be able to arm the system, you will need to connect the inputs to ground. You do not have to connect the TW-523 to test everything ( In fact, you could build this as a regular alarm system without X-10, although YOU, reading this on THIS web site would never imagine doing a thing like that …).

The X Philes…

Of course, X-10 connectivity is what made you read this far ! This project uses an entire house code to itself and if you take a look at the X-10 implementation table, you will see that the alarm system really milks the most from a single house code and does not waste much "address space". The system was designed with the intent to use it in conjunction with a home automation (HA) system. Although you could use it with individual controllers or modules, you will not achieve the maximum versatility that a HA system provides. Bear in mind that certain events can transmit AND receive for a given unit code (eg. 13 ON is transmitted when system enters exit delay mode, and 13 OFF is a command accepted by the system to trigger the delayed X-10 zone). I originally tried to set up a logic where a same unit code and command could be received as one event and transmitted as another; it worked within the alarm system ok, but HA software ( in my case ActiveHome ) is not as discriminating: it will receive and interpret the codes it transmits. I therefore had to treat X-10 more as a broadcast medium instead of point to point.

In light of the above explanation, the keypad commands to initiate manual X-10 commands should be used only to trigger MACROS, and nothing else. This is because DIM and BRIGHT commands are used with the same unit codes. For example, if you were to use issue a 3 ON command from the keypad to directly turn on a lamp that is part of your HA system ( and the lamp is thus on the same house code as the alarm system ), it would turn on ok, but if you have another controller then sending DIM commands to the lamp, you would also be issuing a command to the alarm system to bypass zone 3 the next time it is armed! To avoid this, the 3 ON command should be received by your HA system as a macro that will then issue the ON command to the lamp, which will be on a different house code. This may sound complicated now, but in reality, you will rarely encounter this kind of problem if you stick to triggering macros ( since you can't DIM a macro …).

The X-10 implementation was given extra attention ( …and memory space) to obtain a reliable system. It transmits for all 3 phases of the powerline, "listens" before sending, and detects collisions; it will re-transmit up to 5 times if a collision is detected. I've tested this by having it send a keypad command while hammering away on a mini-controller at the same time; when I stopped "jamming" it with the mini- controller, the command it tried to send finally got through. I made the X-10 routines as generic as possible because I have other projects in mind ( stay tuned…) with this micro controller.

X-10 Implementation Table

UNIT#	ON	OFF	BRIGHT	DIM	STATUS
1	keypad macro(o)	keypad macro(o)	monitor zone 1(i)	bypass zone 1(i)	tripped status zone 1(i)
2	keypad macro(o)	keypad macro(o)	monitor zone 2(i)	bypass zone 2(i)	tripped status zone 2(i)
3	keypad macro(o)	keypad macro(o)	monitor zone 3(i)	bypass zone 3(i)	tripped status zone 3(i)
4	keypad macro(o)	keypad macro(o)	monitor zone 4(i)	bypass zone 4(i)	tripped status zone 4(i)
5	keypad macro(o)	keypad macro(o)	monitor zone 5(i)	bypass zone 5(i)	tripped status zone 5(i)
6	keypad macro(o)	keypad macro(o)	monitor zone 6(i)	bypass zone 6(i)	tripped status zone 6(i)
7	keypad macro(o)	keypad macro(o)	monitor zone 7(i)	bypass zone 7(i)	tripped status zone 7(i)
8	keypad macro(o)	keypad macro(o)	monitor zone 8(i)	bypass zone 8(i)	tripped status zone 8(i)
9	enable monitor(i)	disable monitor(i)	clear all monitor zones(i)	bypass zone 9(i)	send all zone tripped statuses(i)
10	monitor tripped on(o)	monitor tripped off(o)	(none)	bypass zone 10(i)	is monitor mode on ?(i)
11	W.Z. alarm tripped(o)	in pre-alarm(o)	(none)	clear all bypassed zones(i)	is guest mode on ?(i)
12	Panic on/off by X-10(i)	in alarm/panic(o)	(none)	(none)	any zones auto-bypassed ?(i)
13	zone 9 (X-10 delayed)(i)	in exit delay(o)	(none)	(none)	has W.Z. ever tripped ?(i)
14	zone 10 (X-10 immed.)(i)	in disarmed mode(o)	(none)	(none)	has alarm ever tripped ?(i)
15	arm W.Z.(i)	disarm W.Z.(i)	(none)	(none)	is W.Z. armed ?(i)
16	arm system(i)	disarm system(i)	enable guest code(i)	disable guest code(i)	is system armed ?(i)

note:
(i) = input command (incoming command interpreted by alarm system)
(o) = output command (command sent out by alarm system) status requests are input commands that will cause a status response to be output.

Operation

To keep things as clear as possible, I will describe each functional area separately, along with the X-10 commands related to each function. When I refer to the LEDs flashing cadences, I will describe one of 4 different possibilities;

Slow: LED is ON briefly once every 4 seconds.
Regular: LED will turn ON and OFF once per second.
Fast: ON and OFF twice per second.
Alert: LED flashes ON and OFF 3 times in quick succession, with a short pause between each 3 flash group.

Zones: Before discussing any functions, it is important to understand the different zones and their characteristics. This is basically a 10 zone system ( 8 wired and 2 X-10 zones). Of the wired zones, zones 1 to 6 are delayed entry zones, meaning that if these are triggered, you will have the 25 second pre-alarm condition before the siren is activated. Use these with magnetic door switches or motion sensors. Zone 7 is an immediate alarm zone. If triggered, the siren will sound right away. Use this one with window breakage sensors or wired loops that are normally never tripped even when you're home. Zone 8 is also an immediate alarm zone that doubles as the Watch Zone. This is a special zone that you can arm/disarm while you're home by pressing a single, dedicated key on the keypad. Use this for your garden shed, detached garage or any other out-building. I chose to make this zone immediate if violated ( how long does it take to steal a bike ?). Since you do not want to trip this one accidentally, it has its own status LED and its own siren output. You can thus verify its door frame LED every time you go there. Zone 9 is the X-10 triggered zone with entry delay, which you could use with all those free Hawkeyes you've got…This zone is triggered if the alarm system receives a 13 ON command. Zone 10 is an X-10 immediate trigger zone, for whatever use you can come up with. It is triggered by a 14 ON command.

Arming/Disarming: To arm or disarm the system, enter the 4 digit code followed by the ENT key. If you get a second, longer beep after pressing the ENT key, it's because a zone is triggered ( e.g.. a door is still open; all 8 zone lights should be lit ) and the system can't be armed. There is also a dedicated input for remote arming and disarming; a momentary connection to ground on this input will toggle from one mode to the other. You can have zones ignored if desired by bypassing them before arming ( see bypassing ). When the system is unarmed, the ARM LED and the Watch Zone LED will blink at the Slow rate. Once the system is armed both LEDs will go in a Fast blink, and the pre-alarm buzzer will sound. You have 25 seconds to exit and leave all active ( non-bypassed ) zones undisturbed. Once the exit delay is over, both LEDs will blink at Regular rate and pre-alarm buzzer will silence. If you installed any door frame LEDs, you will be able to see that your system is armed when you leave and return simply by watching the LED flashing at the Regular speed. If, upon your return, you see that the LED is flashing the Alert sequence instead, this means that the system was triggered in your absence, and you may want to have a quick look around the house before entering.

If the system is triggered and the entry delay expires, the system will sound the siren for about 2 minutes and then re-arm itself. At the moment it re-arms, it will automatically bypass any zones that are still triggered ( burglars don't always take the time to close the doors when they flee…). These are added to any manually bypassed zones ( see Bypassing ).

When you return and open the door, you will trigger the system. This will sound the pre-alarm buzzer and put the LEDs in Fast blink. You have 25 seconds to disarm the system before the siren is activated. If you see that the system was triggered before you returned, you may now (after disarming ) verify which zone triggered the alarm ( see the Display section ).

X-10 Functions: You can arm and disarm the system by sending it 16 ON and 16 OFF respectively. The same conditions apply as before for a successful arming in regards to zones being ready or bypassed. You can find out if the system did arm by issuing a STATUS REQUEST to unit 16. A status of OFF is returned if disarmed. ON is returned for any other condition (in exit delay, armed, or entry delay). In addition, the following X-10 commands are transmitted by the system: 11 OFF when entering in pre-alarm mode ( I use this to turn on the light in the entrance when I return and open the door, so I can disarm a lit keypad ). 12 OFF when in alarm mode ( how about some flashing lights to go along with the siren ? ). 13 OFF when in exit delay ( you could use this to trigger a macro that will turn on a driveway light for a few minutes as you are leaving ). 14 OFF when system is disarmed ( Hey, use this to stop your robo-dog that you activated when you went in pre-alarm…).

Other status information can be obtained as well: request STATUS of unit 14 to know if alarm has been tripped, response of ON if so, OFF if not. Request STATUS of unit 12 to know if any zones were auto-bypassed as a result of an auto re-arming operation, response of ON if yes, OFF if not. You can inquire about each zone if it was triggered when the system was tripped the first time since arming. Request STATUS of unit 1and you will get ON status if zone 1 was tripped, OFF if not. This is valid for zones up to 8. If zone 9 ( X-10 with delay) was tripped, you will get ON status for units 1 to 4 and OFF status for units 5 to 8. For zone 10 (X-10 immediate), you will get the opposite pattern ( 1 to 4 OFF and 5 to 8 ON ). See the Display section for more details about tripped zones. Finally, requesting STATUS for unit 9 will cause the system to respond with the statuses of units 1 to 8 in succession.

Guest Code: If you have guests or other people to whom you want to give temporary access to your home, you can enable guest mode, which will give them the ability to arm and disarm the system. This was the last function added and I was just able to find enough memory to implement it… The idea is that you want to the person enabling the guest code to have to know the main code first, and you don't want it to be turned on without your knowledge. To meet these criteria, guest mode can only be turned on DURING exit delay time! Thus, you arm the system ( using the main code ) and then press * followed by ENT to turn on guest mode, or # ENT to turn it off. If you do not need to arm the system at this time, you can then disarm it now. 25 seconds should be amply sufficient to press the two keys needed to switch guest mode on or off. By default, guest mode is disabled.

X-10 functions: You can enable or disable guest mode by X-10 anytime. Send a 16 BRIGHT to enable guest mode, and a 16 DIM to disable it. Inquire on the STATUS of unit 11 to know if guest mode is enabled. Response of ON if it is, OFF if not.

Bypassing: Bypassing zones is done with the BYP key on the keypad. You can put the display In bypass display mode before doing this to see the zones as you bypass them, if you wish. To bypass a zone, press the digit corresponding to the zone followed by the BYP key. The X-10 delayed zone is zone 9 and the X-10 immediate zone is zone 10, bypassed with the "0" digit. If you make a mistake, you can clear all bypassed zones by pressing the # key followed by BYP, and start over. Important: zones will only bypassed for the NEXT time armed ! EVERY TIME the system is disarmed, all bypassed zones are CLEARED ! This is a safety measure designed to avoid having zones inadvertently bypassed forever…

X-10 functions: You can bypass zones by X-10 using DIM commands ( just imagine that you are "dimming" the zone from view …). This is where a versatile HA system is needed… so you can send DIM commands without sending a ON or OFF first. Bypass zones 1 to 10 by dimming the corresponding unit number. To clear all bypassed zones, DIM unit 11 .

Watch Zone: This is a function that I wanted to design-in from the start. I have heard too many tales (including my own brother's) of thefts from garden sheds in the night while the owner was home. To be effective, this had to be simple to use. The WZ button on the keypad toggles the zone on or off every time it is pressed. If the zone cannot be armed because it is already triggered (i.e.: a door is open), you will get the "double beep" warning, like with the main alarm. This zone has its own status LED (so you can check before opening your shed…) and its own siren output, in case you want to make it a different sound and/or intensity. When disarmed, the status LED will blink at the Slow rate, and will go to the Regular rate when armed (there is no entry/exit delays on this zone). You can have both siren outputs activate the same siren by simply connecting the outputs together. This zone will sound immediately if triggered. Once triggered, the siren will sound for about 1 minute, and then attempt to re-arm itself if the input is back to normal. After having been triggered, the status LED will blink at the Alert rate, until it is eventually disarmed. I have a small detached garage with a roll-up door and a side door that I protect with this zone, the magnetic reed switches are thus wired in series.

X-10 functions: You can arm and disarm the Watch Zone by sending it 15 ON and 15 OFF respectively. You can inquire about it's arming status by requesting STATUS for unit 15, which will respond ON or OFF accordingly. The Watch Zone is a nice application to have with X-10 because this is the kind of thing that you want to arm every night, but don't want to trigger accidentally during the day, and thus tends to get "forgotten" by the users of the shed or garage. I have setup a macro in my HA system to arm it at 11:00 PM and disarm it at 6:00 AM every day. You can request STATUS of unit 13 to know if the watch zone was triggered, response of ON if yes, OFF if not.

Panic Button: No alarm system is complete without a panic button ! There is a dedicated input for a normally open pushbutton(s) to activate panic mode, which will immediately sound the siren. This button is a toggle; press once to activate panic mode, press it again to de-activate. You can also toggle panic mode by X-10, by sending a 12 ON command to the system. When panic mode is entered, the system will also transmit a 12 OFF command (like when it goes into alarm mode) so that your HA can also get in on the act…

Monitor Mode: This is also called chime mode in some alarm systems. Monitor mode allows you to select any of the 8 wired zones to be monitored for activity while you're home, and will sound the pre-alarm buzzer for 2 seconds when any of the selected zones are triggered. There is also a dedicated open collector output that will be turned on for the 2 seconds if you want to add a chime or other warning device. This is useful, for example, when someone is alone in one part of the house during the day and you are concerned that someone could "sneak into the house" silently. I have heard stories of people being robbed in broad daylight while everyone is in the backyard or in the swimming pool. Another side benefit of this mode is to setup motion sensors and such; it chimes every time you trigger it.

This function was added late in the game and does not have a dedicated key on the keypad. It uses the * and # keys for programming and activation ( and X-10, of course…). Keep in mind that the * key corresponds to ON and the # key to OFF ( I chose these to be consistent with the usage on X-10s Telephone Responder). You activate monitor mode by pressing # followed by * ("from OFF to ON") and de-activate with the opposite * # sequence. By default (after power on), all zones are unmonitored and monitor mode if off. To add zone 1 to the monitored zones, press #1* ("OFF 1 ON"). To remove zone 3 from monitoring, press *3# ("ON 3 OFF") and so on. You can use the DSP key to display the monitored zones as you program them, see the Display section. Just remember that if you are displaying the monitored zones, they will not trigger until you exit display mode.

X-10 functions: Turn on monitor mode by sending a 9 ON command and turn it off with a corresponding 9 OFF. When a monitored zone is triggered, the system will transmit a 10 ON command and 2 or 3 seconds later, transmit a 10 OFF. You can also program the monitored zones using BRIGHT commands ("brighten" up the zone you want to monitor…). A BRIGHT 2 command will monitor zone 2,etc. You cannot remove monitor zones individually by X-10, but you can clear them all by sending a BRIGHT 9 command and then add the zones you want. For example, you want to monitor zones 1,2,3, and 6 between 9 AM and 5 PM, then just zones 1,2,and 3 from 5 PM to 8 PM, and none at night: A 9 AM macro would send 9 ON, 1 BRIGHT, 2 BRIGHT, 3 BRIGHT, 6 BRIGHT. At 5 PM, another macro sends 9 BRIGHT, 1 BRIGHT, 2 BRIGHT, 3 BRIGHT. At 8 PM, a macro sends 9 OFF. Get the idea ? You can also find out if monitor mode is activated by requesting STATUS for unit 10, you will get the appropriate ON or OFF response.

Displaying: The DSP key is used to toggle between real time input display and showing one of 3 zone conditions on the 8 zone LEDs . By default, display is "off" and zones will be displayed in real time, with a LED being ON if zone is ready and OFF if triggered. If no keys are pressed for 15 seconds, any display mode will be exited and returned to real time. This is important as the system (or Watch Zone) cannot be armed and monitoring will not work if in display mode.

Pressing DSP once will show the zones that were tripped the FIRST time that the alarm system was triggered since last being armed. Tripped zones will flash at the Alert rate. If zone 9 was the one triggered, LEDS 1 to 4 will be flashing. If zone 10 was triggered, LEDS 5 to 8 will be flashing.

Pressing DSP a second time will display the bypassed zones. Remember, every time the system is disarmed, these will be cleared. You can enter this display mode as you are programming the zones to be bypassed just before arming the system. Bypassed zones will flash at the Fast rate.

The third press of the DSP key will show you the zones being monitored. You can use this mode to program or verify which zones are being monitored; these will flash at the Regular rate.

A fourth press will exit display mode and return to real time zone display. This must be done in order for arming or monitoring to work.

Triggering Macros: Last, but not least, is the possibility to trigger X-10 macros from the alarm keypad. A key from 1 to 8 followed by * ( for ON ) or # (for OFF) will send the corresponding ON or OFF command to your HA system. Think of it as having a mini-controller right on the panel. I use this to trigger one of several "going away" or "coming home" macros in my HA system. You must agree that the alarm panel is a very convenient location to do this, since you are about to arm or disarm the system at the same moment. If you want to get fancy, you could even program an exit macro that sets the house the way you want it and ends by arming the system ( by sending a 16 ON back to the alarm system )!

Usage Examples

You are on vacation, and want to check up on your house. You connect to your HA system ( by phone, web, or whatever ). You inquire STATUS of unit 16 to make sure the system is still armed. You then inquire STATUS of unit 14 to know if it was triggered. A response of 14 ON says yes… Hmmm, what happened ? A status request of units 1 to 8 responds with ON for units 1 through 4 and OFF for units 5 to 8, which corresponds to the X-10 delayed-entry zone ( ah yes, the motion sensors in the stair- case) . Well, either someone broke in through a window, or your cat is having a hopping good time… A STATUS request of unit 12 with a response of OFF says that no zones were auto-bypassed when the system auto re-armed, so no doors appear to be open. Thinking that if your cat is the culprit, this could re-occur several times ( and annoy the neighbors ), so you decide to temporarily bypass the zone: 16 OFF to disarm system, 9 DIM to bypass zone 9, 16 ON to re-arm. A quick call to a neighbor to have a brief look around your house ( and take in the mail while he's at it ) should give you a clearer picture of the situation, so you enable the guest code with a 16 BRIGHT command.

Conclusion

Well there you have it, a project to keep you busy …and connected. I hope you have as much fun building this project as I had designing it. If you have any comments about this system, or there are un-answered questions that you would like to ask before building it, do not hesitate to e-mail me at guy@lavoie.com While I cannot guarantee an instant response, I will do my best to answer you with the available resources ( …time). As mentioned on the schematic diagram, I have provided this project for the enjoyment of the reader and cannot assume responsibility for any damage or consequences from using the information provided here, but do enjoy ! You may build this project and use the 8751 software for your own personal use, but I retain all rights to it and you may not build this project for profit. I sure would appreciate any feedback from those of you who build it, since the home automation community here, in Montreal, is still in it's infancy and the opportunity to share ideas with other enthusiasts right now rests mostly on the Internet.

In ending, I would like to thank a few people for their help that made this project possible: Pierre Charbonneau of Ottawa for introducing me to X-10 and home automation, Ron Williams, also of Ottawa, for helping me with my initial tests with the TW-523, and work colleague Gaetan Doyon who provided me access to his 8751 compiler and documentation.

From innovativetools

2008-12-12T02:32:00.000-08:00

Innovative UltraRack™

Holds hoods, tailgates, doors, fenders, lift gates, deck lids and fenders.
Single-hand operation, for non-stop, smooth spray finishes.
Seven locking positions mimic the part’s position on the vehicle for a seamless match.
Ability to rotate panel 90 degrees ensures proper paint coverage every time.
Complete system – no accessories needed.
Protective rubber boots keep critical areas overspray-free.
Four industrial grade total-lock caster wheels for stability, zero movement.
Durable powder coat finish withstands heat and rough handling.
U.S. Patent #7,448,606
$379 USD

The Power Tools

2008-12-11T23:59:00.000-08:00

Top 7 Power Tools Every Woodworker Should Have

Many beginners with an interest in woodworking are concerned that they'll have to buy a whole garage full of power tools to get started. That simply isn't the case. There are really only seven woodworking tools that I would recommend any beginning woodworker strive to have on hand from the start, and most are relatively inexpensive. However, with these seven tools, a beginner can take on a considerable number of projects.
The following woodworking tools are listed in order of importance.

1. Circular Saw

A woodworker may choose to employ a circular saw for the same reasons that carpenters and building contractors have used them for years: they are powerful, portable, able to be set up to rip, crosscut and cut many non-wood materials. Here, we'll discuss the features you should look for when choosing a circular saw.

Bigger is Usually Better: Circular saws come in a few different sizes (based on the diameter of the saw blade), from 4" up to the most common size, 7-1/4". They also are typically rated by horsepower and/or RPMs of the saw blade.

When choosing a circular saw, a good rule of thumb is to buy one that has higher horsepower than other models of the same size. While a 1-HP 7-1/4" circular saw would probably be adequate, I like models that are at least two horsepower, as they are less likely to bind when under a load.

Saw Adjustments: Circular Saws have controls for adjusting the depth of the cut (from zero to about 2-3/8" on a typical 7-1/4" model) and the bevel of the cut (the saw blade can be beveled from zero to 45-degrees). Check to see that these controls are easy to adjust and can be firmly tightened to hold the depth or angle. Some models use relatively large, lever-type controls where others employ little more than a wing nut.

Safety Features: Circular Saws all have some basic safety features. Check to see that the saw you're considering has a safety switch, which must be held before the trigger can be depressed. There should also be a blade guard that moves easily when pushing the saw through wood, but springs back into place when the saw is away from the stock.

As with all tools, circular saws can be very dangerous if not used properly. Always read, understand and follow the safety instructions that come with the saw.

Additional Features: Better quality saws employ additional features such as an anti-locking clutch, which are flanges on either side of the blade that will allow the blade to slip if the blade binds on the stock, to protect the motor and drive mechanism. Another useful feature is a blade lock, which locks the drive spindle in place, making it easier to change the saw blade.

A.C. Power vs. Battery-Powered Saws: A recent advancement in circular saws is battery operated, 4-inch blade models. These are wonderful for small cutting operations, such as paneling or 1/4-inch plywood. They're lightweight and perfect when you need to reach high to make a cut. However, they're lacking in horsepower, and aren't much use for cutting more than a just a few 2x4s. I would definitely recommend having one of these battery-operated units on hand, but not until you have a number of other tools in your arsenal.

2. Power Drill

While cordless drills are very popular and convenient, corded drills are a bit more versatile and have the power to handle a number of drilling tasks. Additionally, corded drills are variable speed, which allows the user to drill anywhere from a very slow RPM all the way up to the drill's top speed. I'd recommend a quality 3/8-inch corded version for the beginner's first drill.

Walk through any home center's tool section and take a look at the drills. You'll find that almost the entire selection is made up of cordless models.

Obviously, cordless drills are very popular. Does that mean that corded power drills are antequated and you should only consider a cordless model? Absolutely not.

Why you should Consider a Corded Power Drill: While cordless power drills are very useful due in part to their portability, there are still tasks that still require more power than a cordless will provide. When drilling numerous holes of large diameter, particularly large paddle bits, a power drill should be your tool of choice. Performing such tasks that require considerable power would place tax a cordless drill's battery far more than recommended.

What to Look for in a Power Drill: When looking for a power drill, you'll find that most of the features mimic those found in cordless drills, namely a keyless chuck, reversible action and comfortable grip. However, while cordless drills have 2-speeds, power drills are typically variable speed, which can be very useful when you need to slow down the action. Additionally, some power drills incorporate a hammering action that, while not usable for woodworking, is handy for drilling through concrete, bricks or cinder blocks.

Drill Sizes: Power Drills typically come in two different sizes, 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch. This relates to the size of the chuck, and is indicative of the largest diameter bit that the drill will accommodate. In most cases, a 3/8-inch will suffice, but if you need to drill larger holes regularly or simply want more power, you might consider spending the additional money for a 1/2-inch model.

Safety While Operating Your Drill: While power drills aren't typically overloaded with safety features found on other power tools, that isn't to say you shouldn't exercise caution when using your power drill. Avoid wearing loose-fitting clothing or jewelry that could get caught up in the drill, unplug the drill when not in use, and always wear safety glasses. Additionally, be sure to read and follow the safety instructions found in the power drill's owner's manual.

Beyond these obvious safety precautions, there are a couple of additional safety suggestions that typically need to be mentioned in any discussion of power drills. A power drill should never be carried by the cord. This can cause the cord to dislodge from the casing and cause the power cable to possibly short out. Regularly check your cord for damage.

Hold on Tight: Second, when drilling with paddle bits, be sure to hold onto the drill with a bit firmer of a grip than you normally might, perhaps even holding with two hands. Because of their spade-like shape, paddle bits can occasionally bind against the stock, which will cause a considerable amount of torque back to the drill and subsequently, into your hand. It doesn't take more than one sprained wrist caused by a binding paddle bit to remind the operator to hold on tightly.

3. Jigsaw

The third tool for the beginner is the Jigsaw. A jigsaw allows the user to cut curved and circular patterns in stock. For versatility, choose an orbital-action, corded model that feels good in your hand and has an easy blade changing system.

When you need to make curved cuts, particularly on plywood, particle board or other relatively thin materials, few power tools are as handy as a jigsaw. While jigsaws have been maligned in the woodworking community for their propensity for their blades to bend, resulting in a cut that is not square, the risks are manageable. The possiblilty of an angled cut should not prevent you from adding one of these versatile, portable power tools to your workshop.

Features to Look For: Expensive jigsaws feature primarily two main features that account for their added cost: Orbital Action and Variable Speed. A standard-action jigsaw will move the jigsaw blade solely in an up-and-down motion, where an orbital-action jigsaw will angle the blade slightly forward and into the stock on the up-swing. The angle of the action can typically be adjusted for different types of materials, and can minimize wear on the saw blade. In many materials, this will make for a smoother cut.

Second, higher-end jigsaws will feature variable speeds. While this isn't always necessary when woodworking, it is especially useful if the jigsaw is used to cut metals. I do find it helpful, however, to be able to slow the blade speed down when making some rather intricate cuts, and feel that this feature is well worth the extra cost. If you get used to a variable-speed jigsaw and are forced to switch to a single-speed model, you'll miss the ability to adjust cutting speeds.

Additional Features: Some additional features to look for include a splinter control shoe, which is a small insert on the shoe of the jigsaw, that will help keep splintering to a minimum. You may also find a trigger lock, that will allow you to lock the jigsaw to a particular speed, and dust collection. I personally don't find the dust collection features of jigsaws of much use, but this is a matter of personal preference.

Depth of Cut: Most jigsaws will cut up to 2-inches of depth in woodworking applications, and approximately 1/2-inch on metal. Some jigsaws may feature a slightly deeper cut, but this isn't necessarily desirable on a jigsaw, as the deeper the action, the better the chance of the blade bending and breaking.

Because jigsaws blades have a tendency to bend, particularly on thicker stock, you may end up with an undesirable angled cut. To combat this, avoid cutting directly up to your cut line. Instead, it is adviseable to leave a bit of material next to the line (1/8" should be acceptable), and then use an oscillating drum sander to finish to the line. This will minimize any risk of ending up with less-than-desired results of your jigsaw cuts.

Corded vs. Cordless Jigsaws: Some manufacturers now offer cordless jigsaws, which are not nearly as powerful as their corded counterparts. This difference in power is definitely noticed, as cordless jigsaws don't cut nearly as quickly or handle as thick of stock as a corded model. As such, I'd avoid the cordless jigsaws.

Scroll Saws: Some units, called Scroll Saws, have a blade steering knob on top of the unit that allows the blade to turn while cutting (rather than turning the entire jigsaw). The problem with scroll saws is that pressure must be consistently kept behind the blade to keep the cut consistent, which can be difficult to control when the knob is turned to a sharp angle. As such, I find this to be a control that really isn't necessary, and even counter-productive in certain situations.

Conclusion: While extra features are certainly nice to have, I find that the only extra feature I really would want to invest in is the variable speed. I like the orbital action models, but don't find their added cost is typically necessary considering the investment. I'd rather put that extra money in the piggy bank and save for a band saw.

4. Random Orbital Sander

The fourth most important tool every beginner should buy is a random orbital sander. While palm sanders are less expensive and can use plain sandpaper, the random orbital version doesn't sand in patterns, but in a random motion. This will reduce any sanding marks that may appear on the stock. Be certain that your local woodworking supplier has sanding disks readily available in a number of grits to fit the model that you choose.

Advances in random orbital sanders over the past few years have made them the first sander you should consider when buying tools. Random orbital sanders can be set up to sand very quickly or very smoothly, with the added advantage that the random action will leave very few sanding marks on the finish.

Random Orbit: The feature that makes these sanders so unique is it's ability to sand in a completely random orbit, at speeds of up to 25,000 RPM. This completely random motion is what allows the sander to be able to leave a smooth finish without the sanding marks that palm sanders or belt sanders leave behind.

Sandpaper: Most random orbit sanders use sanding disks, typically in a 5-inch diameter affixed to the foam-rubber pad by hook & loop connections. These disks usually have eight holes in a circular pattern that line up with the dust collection holes in the pad. Sanding disks typically are available in a number of grits, from as low as 60 (coarse) to 220 (very fine).

Features: When buying a random orbit sander, there are a few features you should definitely have. First of all, dust collection is a must. Not only should the sander have a dust collection bag or filter that accompanies the unit, but it should be able to be connected to a dust collection or portable vacuum unit. This will make sanding much cleaner, and keep a lot of the dust that sanding creates to a minimum.

Also, the unit should have a sealed switch, to keep dust from getting into the switch which might cause the unit to be difficult to turn on or off.

The sander should be well balanced, and feel comfortable in your hand. If possible, turn the sander on and feel the vibrations. All sanders vibrate, but an excessively vibrating sander will cause considerable fatigue when working on large sanding projects.

Additional Features to Consider: Some higher-end random orbital sanders have variable speed controls. This is very useful when sanding some heat-sensitive materials where you might want to keep the heat lower. However, in woodworking applications, this has little practical use. Additionally, the orbital sander you choose should have a trigger lock, to lock the power on when in use.

Tips for Using a Random Orbital Sander: When working with a random orbital sander, keep the sander moving with the grain of the material. Leaving the sander in one place may cause an uneven finish. Also, take care to avoid rounding over the edges. If an eased edge is desired, use the sander to create a consistent but distinct small chamfer on the edge rather than rounding over the action from the face.

The Last Word: Be certain that, whichever random orbital sander you choose, your home center or building supplier carries sanding disks made to fit that particular model. The last thing you want to do is buy a sander that you love, only to find that sanding disks are nowhere to be found, or only available in a limited variety of grits.

5. Table Saw

Once you have the four aforementioned handheld power tools in your arsenal and you've had time to get comfortable with using them, its time to make your first (and most important) major tool purchase. The table saw is the heart and soul of every woodworking shop, so you want to buy the best tool you can comfortably afford. Take the time to learn which features you really want and the saw that best fits your budget and your needs.

The Table Saw is undoubtedly the most versatile machine in any shop, and should be the woodworker's first machine purchase. A good table saw becomes the centerpiece of the workshop, as the woodworker uses it to rip, square, miter, groove, shape and join pieces. A quality table saw will make completing nearly any woodworking project easier.

Table Saw Features: Every table saw should have a smooth, heavy work surface, a handle for raising and lowering the saw blade, a separate handle for adjusting the angle of the blade and connections for dust collection. The saw should have a strong motor that starts smoothly with little vibration and enough horsepower to make deep cuts through harder woods.

Safety Equipment: Every table saw should include a blade guard, to protect the woodworker from the exposed saw blade, and a large, easily accessible on/off switch. Most modern table saws utilize a large paddle switch that is pulled to turn on the saw, and pushed to turn it off. As such, when the woodworker's hands are busy steadying the material being cut, they can turn the saw off merely pressing their knee against the switch.

Rip Fence: Perhaps the most important feature to look for when researching which table saw to buy is the fence. A quality fence should be consistently parallel to the saw blade, and have fine tuning controls for when the fence needs adjustment. Most larger table saws have a Biesemeyer-style fence that is sturdy enough for ripping large stock very smoothly and is strong enough to let the woodworker securely clamp a sacrificial strip or featherboard to the fence.

Miter Gauge: Most table saws include a miter gauge for making angled crosscuts. Better quality saws will utilize a T-groove in the saw's table to help keep the miter gauge from coming out of the groove when in use. The miter gauge should glide smoothly without feeling loose and the be clearly marked for setting the proper cutting angle.

Options: A number of additional tools and jigs are available for the table saw, including tenoning jigs, stacked dado cutting sets, tapering jigs, panel-cutting jigs and sliding tables. These accessories all can be used to make the table saw the one machine tool that no workshop should be without.

6. Compound Miter Saw

After you have chosen your perfect table saw, the next major purchase is a compound miter saw. While not as expensive as a table saw, a compound miter saw is invaluable for cutting compound angles on the ends of stock. Once you get good on a miter saw, you'll find that your circular saw spends a little more time in the drawer than it used to.

When you need to make a precise, compound angle cut on the end of a piece of stock, few tools are as easy to use as a compound miter saw. A compound miter saw is basically nothing more than a circular saw placed on the end of a lever. The stock is placed on a flat base against a fence, and the saw is lowered into the stock. However, the ability to precisely angle and bevel the saw before cutting into the wood gives the compound miter saw its versatility.

The Miter Gauge: A compound miter saw can be angled up to 45-degrees either to the left or right. A quality compound miter saw should have a clearly marked miter gauge (which can be easily adjusted when necessary), and hard stops at 0, 15, 22.5, 30 and 45-degrees in both directions. The woodworker should also be able to lock the saw to any specific miter angle they need.

The Bevel: The "compound" part of the name comes from the saw's ability to tilt the saw in addition to setting the miter angle. Some saws will only bevel in one direction where others will bevel up to 45-degrees either left or right. This is especially helpful when the woodworker needs to cut two angles on the same cut. Installing crown molding, for instance, becomes a much simpler procedure when two precise angles can be cut at the same time.

Blade Size: Compound Miter Saws typically come in 8", 10" or 12" blade models. Most users find the 10" model perfectly adequate, as the 8" is just not large enough to cut angles on a 6" piece of stock on a 45-degree miter, nor tall enough to accommodate the stock on edge. Conversely, a 12" model may be a bit exorbitant price-wise. However, if you can afford a quality 12" model, you'll definitely appreciate the larger blade size.

Sliding Compound Miter Saws: Some miter saws have an additional slide feature where, after sinking the saw into the material, the blade may be pushed or pulled through the wood, allowing the woodworker to cut larger pieces of stock than would be otherwise possible. The additional motion gives this type of saw a radial-arm feel. While this is a very handy feature, it can add considerably to the price of the saw.

A Handy Option: Some companies sell a laser light that can be installed onto your miter saw that will show exactly where the saw will cut. This takes any guess work out of cutting compound angles. Simply mark the spot for the cut, set the miter and bevel, place the stock firmly against the fence, line up the mark with the laser line and make the cut. It couldn't be any easier.

7. Router

The last tool I recommend for every beginning woodworker is a quality router. While many routers available today offer two different bases (a stationary base and a plunge router base), for most beginners, a quality stationary base model will take care of quite a number of tasks, and can be mounted in a router table should you choose to invest in one down the line. Choose a model that is at least 2-HP and variable speed (as larger cutting bits should use slower speeds).

When a beginning woodworker is getting started, inevitibly one of the woodworking tools that they're most eager to get their hands on is a router. Why? Perhaps it is the wide range of shapes that can be placed onto an edge that can be quite impressive looking. Or maybe it's the fact that it's just a "really cool tool." Whatever the reason, most woodworkers take a lot of pride in their routers, and their ability to get the most out of them.

Stationary vs. Plunge Router: So, what should you look for when buying a router? Well, first of all, you need to know whether you need a stationary base or a plunge router.

What's the difference? Simply put, a stationary base router is one on which you set a specific depth, and that depth stays consistent while using the tool. A plunge router, on the other hand, allows you to plunge the router bit downward and into the stock, make the desired cut, and then lift the bit back out of the stock.

So, which one should you buy? Well, both, to be honest. A number of routers available today use the same router motor but offer two different bases, so you get the best of both worlds. This is a nice option, but not absolutely necessary.

Frankly, I prefer to find a good stationary base router first, and then save my pennies for a really good plunge router later, and convert the stationary base router for use in a router table.

Features to Focus on: When looking at routers, the most important feature to look for is the horsepower rating of the motor. I wouldn't buy any router that is less than 2-HP, as you'll need that power to push some bigger bits through stock.

Next, you'll want to spend a little extra to get one that has a variable speed control. Single-speed routers are fine as long as you're using small bits, but keep in mind: the larger the bit, the slower the cutting speed needs to be. Otherwise, you're likely to burn the bit.

Third, look at the collet diameter. That is to say, routers can accommodate either 1/4-inch diameter shaft bits or 1/2-inch diameter bits. 1/2-inch bits are more expensive and not nearly as readily available, but are much more stable and will route with less chatter than 1/4-inch bits. (Keep in mind, 1/4-inch bits will adapt to fit into a 1/2-inch collet, but not the other way around.)

Fourth, the router you purchase should have ergonomic handles that feel comfortable in your hands. Some routers have one large, pistol-grip style handle that you hold with your dominant hand, while your second hand wraps around the motor housing of the router to stabilize the unit. Other models offer two handles on opposite sides of the base. Choose whichever model feels comfortable in your hands.

No matter which handle style you prefer, be certain that the power switch is within easy reach when your hands are on the router. You don't want to remove your hand to turn off the motor.

On a Plunge router, the handles are on opposite sides of the base, and the depth gauge should be within easy reach of your thumb without removing your hand from the grip.

Advanced Features to Consider: One feature of top-of-the-line routers is an electronic feedback system that will sense the load and adjust the speed accordingly to try and keep the RPM's consistently in the selected range. A bit costly, but very nice feature to think about.

The Last Word: If I were building a new wood shop, my first router would be a well-built, minimum 2-HP, variable-speed stationary base router. If I found a model that I really liked that had an optional plunge base, I would probably consider it, but rather than spend a bunch more for that option, I'd buy the stationary model first, and save for a dedicated plunge router with electronic speed control. Then, I'd move the stationary router to a router table and use the plunge unit for regular routing.

All image are copyright to Chris Baylor & licensed to About.com, Inc.

Picking the Best Hand Tools Makes A Huge Difference (ezinearticles)

2008-12-11T23:52:00.000-08:00

If you’re ready to make some much needed home repairs then one things for sure, you’ll likely need some hand tools to get the job done. Many times having the right tools is a huge set back when it comes to getting started on a project in your home. So, to get you started, here’s a run down of many of the basics that you’ll need to get going.

Whenever you’re improving your home, safety should always be your paramount concern. So, first things first; you’re going to want to have ear protection, goggles, and masks to get the ball rolling.

Will you be remodeling or repairing wall or floors in your home for instance? You’re obviously not going to get this done without some good strong tools. First off, if the walls are located in the basement you’ll need a brush with stiff bristles, a wire brush, and a heavy-duty paintbrush or two. This is to help protect your walls. One of the better tool companies out there that have been around for quite sometime is Stanley Tools.

Stanley’s tools are a great choice because they’re inexpensive while being a good strong tool. One thing to remember when it comes to tools is that the stronger the tool, the safer the tool.

Now, let’s say for example that you’re working outside the home repairing grades about the foundation. You’ll need a grading rake, hand tamp, line leveler, wheelbarrow, and a standard garden rake. Most if not all of these hand tools can be found in the Stanley collection.

Many of the repairs inside your home, such as walls or ceilings you’ll need tools like drills, screwdrivers, a good hammer, paintbrushes, scrapers, a glue gun, etc.

Now other tools that you’ll need for smaller things are utility knives, pliers, wallboard knives, tile pliers, stud finder, syringe, and a few other tools depending on the task. For many of these tools like quality utility knives for instance a great supplier of these tools is the manufacturer of Leatherman Tools.

For years Leatherman has produced tools that make it simple and easy for the handyman to carry a bunch of tools, without carrying a bunch of tools. Does that sound crazy? Well the fact is that Leatherman combines many of the hand tools that you will use in one unit. For instance you may find a knife, a pair of pliers, both tips of screwdrivers, and even pruning tools all on one unit. This really comes in handy and many of us know the father who pulls out their Leatherman tools at a moments notice.

As you start out you may not always have every tool that you’ll need for every job, and that’s fine. But having a few of the basic, and getting them as a quality tool such as through Stanley Tools or in an efficient unit such as with Leatherman Tools can only make your job that much easier.

Vince Paxton very often creates papers on things relating to antique tools and discount tools. You might find out more about his comments on hand tools at http://www.insidewoodworking.com and other sources for hand tools information.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Vince_K._Paxton

Toothbrush Sterilizer (CoolTool)

2008-12-09T23:23:00.000-08:00

PureBrush

If you share your house with several children (as I do) it's quite common for one kid to grab another kid's toothbrush, creating a pathway for infection. I decided that this problem was real when my oldest boy got a cold sore on his lip, and my youngest daughter mysteriously acquired one of her own a week later.

The human mouth is well known to be crawling with viruses and bacteria, and a toothbrush naturally picks up its share, along with some saliva to form an excellent culture medium. A toothbrush sitting innocently in the bathroom may be one of the least hygienic items in your home.

Several sterilizers are available, but this one seems the best to me, using ultraviolet light instead of steam. It's also useful if you have a guest who didn't plan to stay overnight and came without his own toothbrush. He won't catch anything from you, and you won't catch anything from him (at least, not by him brushing his teeth).

-- Abigail Fromm

PureBrush
$70
Available from Dental Mart
Manufactured by Purebrush

Network Cable Tester (CoolTool)

2008-12-09T23:11:00.000-08:00

Atlas IT Cable Analyser

This is an RJ45 cable tester, which recognizes particular kinds of cable (ethernet, rolled, ethernet economisers, audio cables), both 4-wire and 8-wire. If you only ever need to test a few single cables a year, you won't need this. However if you're trying to test more than one cable at a time, particularly if they are long runs or hidden, this is great. Normally ethernet testers come in remote/master pairs, so you have to
- go to remote site (attic, patching closet, whatever)
- attach remote terminator
- go to local end
- test
Rinse, lather, repeat. One trip per cable.

The nice thing about this tester is that with the numbered terminators, you can test several lines at a time, without having to dash up to the attic each time to change the remote terminator. You can also see easily when you've mislabelled cables. ("Patch panel port 2 has terminator 8 on it? Bugger. Time to re-label...") It's also useful when you have a mixed bag of cables which you need to identify and sort into boxes. As a network engineer, this is something I have to do quite often...unfortunately.

Oh, and one other thing -- if you switch it on without a terminator, it will show you how to wire ethernet patch and crossover cables, including the cable colors. It's kinda shiny. Yes, it's more expensive than the kind you get for cheap off Ebay, but it also does so much more.

-- Donal Cunningham

Atlas IT Network Cable Analyser
Model UTP05
75 Pounds (~$159)
Available from Peak Electronic Design

The Carpenter (arichard)

2008-12-09T21:49:00.000-08:00

A. RICHARD DRYWALL LINE
We have been manufacturing tools since 1890 and we continue to improve the safety, efficiency and comfort level of hand tool by designing and creating new and innovative tools each year. Our Ergo-Grip^TM Drywall Line matches the precise demands of the professional users by reducing muscle stress and strain during prolonged work days.

Ergo-Grip(TM) PAINT SCRAPER WITH SERRATED-EDGE 4-SIDED BLADE

After introducing the first ergonomically designed paint scrapers with a huge success, we are expanding our Scraper Line with a new and innovative 13 inch 4-sided Ergo-Grip^TM scraper and a 4-sided serrated blade that just won’t quit. Now you will know what Heavy-duty really means.

Ergo-Grip(TM) DRYWALL KNIFE

We already had one of the best drywall knives on the market, but after 18 months of research and input from professional drywallers, we finally created it: the Ultimate Drywall Knife. Its tempered aluminum bride will keep the blade straight no matter what and the new smaller more comfortable handle will reduce muscular fatigue to a minimum.

Ergo-Grip(TM) HAND SANDER FEATURING EASYCLAMP SYSTEM(TM)

We are still pushing the inside of the envelope with the best ergonomic hand sander on the market. The wide rubberized handle allows for a more powerful sanding with both hands and maximizes grip and comfort. The new and innovative Easyclamp System^TM makes sandpaper loading and unloading fast and easy, saving you time and money.

Ergo-GripTM 9-IN-1 TOOL

The Ergo-Grip^TM 9-in-1 tool with its rubberized handle and hammer head is a must in the painter’s tool box. Its tempered steel blade is designed to allow you to clean rollers, open and close paint cans, spread putty, clean out cracks and scrape flat, concave or convex surfaces.

Ergo-Grip(TM) SAFETY RAZOR SCRAPER

Introducing the first ergonomic rubberized razor scraper on the market. The set-up button features a CLOSE position that locks for safe storage, a SCRAPE position to secures blade during scraping and a CHANGE position that permits safer and faster blade loading and unloading.

COMPLETE DUST FREE DRYWALL SANDING KIT

The dust free sading head is designed for contractors, painters, renovators and DIY’ers who hate cleaning up after drywall sanding. This sanding kit eliminates most of the harmful dust from your environment, protecting your health and home.

Ergo-Grip(TM) DRYWALL SAW WITH AGGRESSIVE 2-SIDED TOOTH DESIGN

The fastest and strongest heavy-duty multi saw on the market cuts 50% faster through a variety of construction materials such as drywall board, cement backing, PVC and wood. The rubberized handle is ergonomically designed for comfort and prolonged use.

Perfect Ladders (toolmonger)

2008-12-09T21:00:00.000-08:00

Gorilla Ladders are simply a great innovation! This handy compact ladder folds into an incredible 28 positions! Quickly transitioning from one position to the next it can be used in a variety of settings. For the roof of my house it becomes a sturdy extension ladder, for painting the ceiling in a closet it becomes a step ladder. Quoting one customer when comparing it to the Little Giant he said, "The most obvious advantage is the price -- $99 versus $375 for the Little Giant. I see no obvious benefits that the LG has over the Gorilla. Both have welded steps (with caps covering the welds on the Gorilla), both are heavy-duty and strong, and both work great. I actually feel more comfortable using the Gorilla in the scaffold mode because of the hinges they provide. It also feels lighter".

Another great thing is that there are Gorilla ladders made for hunter stands. (PETA people close your eyes to this paragraph).

There are specialty ladders for stands for hunters- or bird wathers! Or outdoor photographers! Yea, or maybe just a tree house. Whatever floats your boat

That seems to be the majority opinion. This nifty new ladder folds into an incredible 28 different positions. As I mentioned, made of fiberglass or aluminum, plus, there are 6 different height options. The multi-position ladder can be used as an A-frame, extension ladder, stepladder and scaffolding. The Gorilla Ladder has a unique, superior heavy duty, Locking Hinge System.

It also comes equiped with slip resistant steps, slip resistant feet, and an extra wide flared base for added stability. Do not forget it also has a lifetime limited warranty.

Traditional ladders are limited by the standard upright position. Why would anyone bother? Transitioning between the various modes is easy. Not to mention the fact that having all four tools in one ladder is really convenient.

Another quote, this one from; http://toolmonger.com/category/manufacturers/gorilla-ladder/ "Don writes: "Of all the configurable ladders out there, this ladder is the perfect fit for my tiny Baltimore rowhome. I have the 13′ fiberglass version, which allows me access to the high area below my stairs for electrical work - a very good reason to have the fiberglass version. I've also used it as an extension ladder to do things to the outside of my house. It works as a great stepladder, which I've used for demo, framing, drywall, etc. The best feature I've found in the stepladder is that I can straddle the top and put a foot on each top "safe" rung. Each set of legs extends through three different positions, which gives you the capability to use it as a stair ladder, too. It also comes with a brace that locks it into place to use as a scaffold base - assuming that you have two of them. When I'm done with it, the legs lock together and it collapses to take up very little space. This is a must if you live in a tiny house like I do."

The Beginning

2008-12-09T20:17:00.000-08:00

Lets talking about
Tools which maybe can make your life become more
efficient and effective